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  1. #1
    Senior Member -c0de-'s Avatar
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    Costco "Warbonnet Summer Yeti" Down Underquilt

    Alright Ladies and Gentlemen...

    Here is my latest project: The Costco "Warbonnet Summer Yeti" Down Underquilt.

    After reviewing all of the various takes on converting the Costco throw into an underquilt, I wanted to see exactly how close to a real underquilt I could make one.

    After researching underquilts, the Warbonnet Yeti seemed to be the most popular, and seemed like a good design to attempt to clone. The Yeti 3 season measures 46" long by 40" wide, uses 2" baffles to create 8 chambers with 6.5 ounces of 800 fill down shared between them, and has draft collars at each end. The quilt features a dual differential cut, and is rated to 20F. This seemed to be a good design to attempt to clone.

    The Costco down throw blanket starts out being a 60" x 70" blanket. It is subdivided into 5" squares measuring 12 squares by 14 squares. My goal was to try and keep the underquilt as close to the original design as possible to minimize having to remove any down or creating a shell from scratch. Since these Costco down throws only have 6 ounces of 700 fill down in them, I figured that a torso length UQ would help me get the most "bang for my buck" in both design and temperature rating, with the overall goal being a two season (late spring/summer/early fall) underquilt.

    My plan was to take the blanket and only use the parts highlighted in red, and shifting the down in the unused areas to the red parts.

    Costco Down Throw Blanket - Plan.jpg

    The top red area is going to be my collars on each end of the quilt. The top area is somewhat fluid, as I will not be closing it off until the quilt is finished, that way the collars are going to be the exact same size as the underquilt itself. If everything works correctly, it should measure 40" wide by 5" long. I plan on cutting this into one 40" x 2" section, and a 40" x 3" section. I will use the 40" x 3" section for the shoulder area, and the 40" x 2" section for the behind the knees area. I planned on ripping all of the vertical seams, creating one horizontal chamber, and then shifting all of the down over and into the red area.

    The lower red area will be the main body of the underquilt. It will originally start off measuring 60" wide by 50" long. As I mentioned, I will shift all of the down from the rest of the quilt (see green arrows), down into this area. This way, I utilize all of the down in the quilt, and allow for the maximum warmth possible. I plan on ripping out all of the horizontal seams, creating 12 channels.

    The biggest drawback to using a Costco down throw is that it employs a sewn-through design. This lead me several weeks back to spitballing an idea about "faux baffles", which conveniently enough another HF member (GadgetUK437) had already decided to do. After seeing him create a solid proof-of-concept underquilt, I decided that it would be a good way to allow the down to loft properly, and help to create a differential.

    Now, I want to make this underquilt a dual differential cut just like the Yeti. I also want to create baffles for each chamber to allow for the maximum down loft as possible. Faux baffles solve both of these problems. My plan was to create faux baffles measuring 3/4" deep. If I start with my original 60" width, I have 12 channels. This means that I have 11 sewn through seams. If I am removing 3/4" from each side of the seam to create my faux baffle, this means that I am using up 16-1/2" of material. This leaves me with a new top layer dimension of 43-1/2". The goal was to allow this 3-1/2" difference from the Yeti's width of 40" to be my flex room for the fabric used to create the seams, since it too will take up some material.

    1011161940_HDR.jpg 1011161940a_HDR.jpg 1013161558_HDR.jpg 1013162312_HDR.jpg

    What I found once I had sewn all of my faux baffles was that I had about 1-1/8" of material left over. In order to hit that magic 40" width number that I was after, I used the same faux baffle technique on the edges, pulling the outer edge in by 1/2" on each side. When I was finished, I was right at 40" wide.

    One mistake that I made, was I originally thought that I would need to leave some loose material on the top and bottom of the quilt in order to create the other half of my dual differential cut. Once it was time for me to sew this, it was a complete mess. I ended up going back and finishing out the faux baffle to each end, as opposed to leaving a 2-1/2" gap.

    1015160811_HDR.jpg 1015160811a_HDR.jpg

    After fluffing the down, here is what I was measuring:

    1015161010_HDR.jpg

    After I had finished correcting my mistake, I measured 2" on each end (having now cut my quilt length down to 50" after shifting all of the down), and then carefully sewed the edges to the top layer in order to finish my dual differential cut, making the overall length 46".

    1015161444_HDR.jpg

    Here is the finished product of all of that labor:

    1015161752_HDR.jpg

    As you can see, it allows for a much cleaner edge, as well as really helps to puff up the quilt.

    At this point I went ahead and started creating my collars.

    1015162134_HDR.jpg

    I forgot to take photos of the collars after being measured to length and cut into a 40" x 2" and 40" x 3" sections, but I did take photos of me stuffing them into some nice blue sleeves for that color pop.

    1016160042_HDR.jpg 1016161948_HDR.jpg

    Now that I had the basic shapes, I needed to go ahead and trim out the quilt with the suspension channels. Word to the wise... It takes a deeper channel than you think for the underquilt to move freely on your suspension. I however, was blind to this knowledge at the time. That means that I essentially trimmed out my underquilt. I did not take photos of this faux pas. I merely went to bed, as I figured I could use the sleep to clear my head.

    I will continue my build in the next comment...
    Last edited by -c0de-; 10-26-2016 at 08:49.
    "No one saw me come or go, they only know me by where I have been." -c0de-

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  2. #2
    Senior Member -c0de-'s Avatar
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    Update continued...

    When I did manage to get around to finishing the project, I made sure to measure the fabric doubled over first, and added the additional fabric needed for the rolled seam. I then attached the new channels to the outside of the quilt trim so that it would at least look aesthetically pleasing from the outside.

    1020162243_HDR.jpg 1020162243a_HDR.jpg

    My final dimensions were spot on 40" x 46", just like the Warbonnet Yeti.

    All I had left to do was to add the shockcord suspension. I went with 11' for the length, and 45" for the collars. In the following photos you will see that I have excess cord, but that is because I originally had not planned on using Triangle Things to help keep the underquilt suspension raised. I do find that I really like the triangle things, and may trim the suspension accordingly in the future.

    Here are the first pics of the underquilt in use, but with the collars completely uncinched:

    1021161718a_HDR.jpg 1021161718b_HDR.jpg 1021161718c_HDR.jpg 1021161719_HDR.jpg

    Here is the underquilt with the collars cinched up fully:

    1021161720_HDR.jpg 1021161721_HDR.jpg 1021161721a_HDR.jpg

    It cinches up really tightly to the body, and as you can see it is very puffy. In that first photo you can see where I flipped part of the shoulder collar out in order to show that if I needed to really secure up the ends from any wind or heat loss, it would be easily possible.

    1021161740_HDR.jpg 1021161741a_HDR.jpg

    The fact that I get 2-1/2" of height on the baffles when the down fluffs up means that I should be good to 35F if the down calculator is correct.

    All in all I am very happy with the quilt. All I have left to do is to wash it and my topquilt with some Nikwax Down Wash and give it one good final fluffing.
    Last edited by -c0de-; 10-25-2016 at 13:16.
    "No one saw me come or go, they only know me by where I have been." -c0de-

    Eagle Scout - 2000

  3. #3
    Senior Member zukiguy's Avatar
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    Sweeeeeeeet......

  4. #4
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    Finely detailed, awesome work!!

  5. #5
    Senior Member -c0de-'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carbon View Post
    Finely detailed, awesome work!!
    Thanks! Took longer than I thought, but I managed to finally knock it out in between feedings and naps of my newborn daughter.
    "No one saw me come or go, they only know me by where I have been." -c0de-

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  6. #6
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    I like the idea of migrating down as you did and not dealing with extra fill. I'll probably do something similar for my next 3/4 UQ project.

  7. #7
    Senior Member -c0de-'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carbon View Post
    I like the idea of migrating down as you did and not dealing with extra fill. I'll probably do something similar for my next 3/4 UQ project.
    I haven't had the chance to create a down collector attachment for my shopvac, so until then, I try to avoid messing with down if at all possible. It's almost as bad as sand after going to the beach. It gets everywhere!
    "No one saw me come or go, they only know me by where I have been." -c0de-

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  8. #8
    Senior Member MattK's Avatar
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    Well, this is officially the most refined Costco underquilt design I have seen to day. Very well thought out and executed. I will be copying once the weather turns for the worse and the real Sewing Season comes to stay.

    Tip of the hat sir!

  9. #9
    Senior Member -c0de-'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattK View Post
    Well, this is officially the most refined Costco underquilt design I have seen to day. Very well thought out and executed. I will be copying once the weather turns for the worse and the real Sewing Season comes to stay.

    Tip of the hat sir!
    Thanks! Let me know if you have any questions once you get to making your own. It's pretty straight forward, and the hardest part was sewing the differential at the head and foot ends of the quilt, but that was only because of the end channels made from sewing the faux baffles. Just take your time and go slow if you have a light duty machine.
    "No one saw me come or go, they only know me by where I have been." -c0de-

    Eagle Scout - 2000

  10. #10
    New Member
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    Awesome build. When you built the draft collars, how did you transfer the down into the blue sleeves?

    Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk

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