Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 37
  1. #21
    Senior Member BillyBob58's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Tupelo, MS
    Posts
    11,108
    Images
    489
    Quote Originally Posted by WhollyHamaca View Post
    This is just an idea you might want to pursue further. I haven't tried it, so proceed with care!
    I think you probably can make the height adjustable if your uprights are 1-3/8" fence top rail. Here's an UNTESTED idea you might be able to adapt for your purpose, starting from a post I just saw for modding the legs on a DIY tensahedron stand that was made from the same fence rail material.
    https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...=1#post2004233
    So, it seems that 1" emt will fit snugly onto the swedged end of 1-3/8" fence top rail, and when taken apart the 1" emt slides into the opposite straight end. His goal was to break down the legs into shorter slide-together sections to make a more compact bundle for transport. Good idea, and maybe can adapted for adjustable leg lengths on your Spurtle. I don't have a piece of fence to rail to test the 1" emt slide-in fit, so I'm just going on what he says!

    If the 1" emt is sufficiently snug when it slides into the straight (not swedged) end of the top rail with very little wiggle, then I think you could use it to make your Spurtle legs adjustable. That is, cut each Spurtle leg into 2 sections (I don't know the physics of where the cut should be for max strength when joined. Middle??) and cut a section of 1" emt that will slide in between the 2 sections at the new cut.
    Drill a hole for a locking connector pin (can't recall its proper name -- the kind with the wire across it) all the way through the top rail on each end, a few inches below the new cuts. Also drill some holes through the 1" emt in strategic places to adjust for your desired length(s), and secure the new sliding joint on both ends with locking connector pins. (Or you could pop-rivet one end of the emt into the stand leg below the cut, and slide only the upper leg section to adjust the height.)
    I'd allow about 4" length of 1" emt at each end inside the fence rail (so an 8" length of emt will connect the 2 leg sections together but will not add any length). Make the extension longer at your own discretion!
    I can think of a couple other ways to do this, but IMO they're less secure.
    To repeat: This is just an idea you might want to pursue further. I haven't tried it, so proceed with care!
    I hope this is a helpful start. Good luck, and if you succeed (or even if not) please report back!
    Good to know!

  2. #22
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Piedmont NC
    Hammock
    long and wide
    Tarp
    big green diy
    Insulation
    faux baffled CDTs
    Suspension
    wing and prayer
    Posts
    253
    I just remembered where I saw the very same leg extension concept, proven, with the same materials on a bipod stand. Easy to make height adjustable. Here's the post with a pic: https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...=1#post1949992

  3. #23
    Senior Member BillyBob58's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Tupelo, MS
    Posts
    11,108
    Images
    489
    Quote Originally Posted by WhollyHamaca View Post
    I just remembered where I saw the very same leg extension concept, proven, with the same materials on a bipod stand. Easy to make height adjustable. Here's the post with a pic: https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...=1#post1949992
    Good info! I have been using a version of the A frame stand like OneClick built for a long time. Height adjusted by adjusting the spread. And I need a lot of height for my 90º hammock tent, especially if using a top rail long enough for my RR. But, not much height needed for the RR and some of my GEs.

    But I am tempted to convert to this Spurtle stand with a single upright rather than an A frame. Seems like it might be advantageous, adjusting height by way of some drilled holes and with all weight going straight down the upright, rather than an A frame. Of course, I have played with the thoughts of converting to a Tensahedron as well. I'm sure there are various pros and cons to each, especially for indoor hanging. Thoughts, anyone?

    But for the Spurtle, what have folks found best for the bottom T? Just a T fitting from Tarps dot com and fence post for a rt and lt foot? Probably 3 feet on each sid is plenty long enough for stability?

    I probably should stick with what I've been using, because I will have to order new couplers top and bottom plus shipping to convert. Which is probably crazy, but that Spurtle does seem attractive for some reason. Maybe because of only one upright pipe in the middle, with height adjustable with 1" EMT inside a fence post, drilled holes and a clip?

    Dang, it's as bad as trying to decide between hammocks and UQs.

    Even with a Tensahedron conversion, I would not have to have new couplers shipped either.

  4. #24
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Gresham, OR
    Hammock
    Hammock Bliss Single
    Tarp
    hb XL Rain Fly
    Insulation
    PLUQ
    Suspension
    Strap, rings, loop
    Posts
    63
    I used four foot long pieces in the bottom tees, so only two feet sticking out on each side.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #25
    Senior Member BillyBob58's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Tupelo, MS
    Posts
    11,108
    Images
    489
    Quote Originally Posted by Willfcc View Post
    I used four foot long pieces in the bottom tees, so only two feet sticking out on each side.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    So, that is 4 sections of 1 ft each, for a total of 4 ft wide, with 2 ft on each side coming out from the T?

    Great, 4 ft is not all that wide, which will be better for trying to fit it into tight areas.

  6. #26
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Piedmont NC
    Hammock
    long and wide
    Tarp
    big green diy
    Insulation
    faux baffled CDTs
    Suspension
    wing and prayer
    Posts
    253
    Several years ago I made a (Speers) black-iron pipe stand to fit diagonally into the corners of a very small bedroom. The feet were joined to the uprights with 90* connectors instead of the usual T's. Each foot piece was 24" long (so four 24" pieces total, using 2 per upright), The feet hugged the baseboards perfectly in the corners, with nothing to trip over or stub a toe on. It was quite stable. I haven't looked, but Tarps.com probably has connectors to make a Spurtle with 90* feet. Just an option for those who want to fit a Spurtle in tight corners.
    Last edited by WhollyHamaca; 02-08-2020 at 17:09. Reason: un-confusing "stand feet" vs. "measurement feet"!

  7. #27
    Senior Member BillyBob58's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Tupelo, MS
    Posts
    11,108
    Images
    489

    L shaped elbows should work for uprights/feet as well as top rail

    Quote Originally Posted by WhollyHamaca View Post
    Several years ago I made a (Speers) black-iron pipe stand to fit diagonally into the corners of a very small bedroom. The feet were joined to the uprights with 90* connectors instead of the usual T's. Each foot piece was 24" long (so four 24" pieces total, using 2 per upright), The feet hugged the baseboards perfectly in the corners, with nothing to trip over or stub a toe on. It was quite stable. I haven't looked, but Tarps.com probably has connectors to make a Spurtle with 90* feet. Just an option for those who want to fit a Spurtle in tight corners.
    I was hesitant to order some more fittings from Tarps dot com, particularly with the shipping that easily doubles price. But I don't know what I was thinking. I already have 4 elbows that I am using on the A frame version(using 2 on each end to make a swivel for the A frame with the top rail passing through both), that should work just fine using 2(one on each end) to connect the top rail to the upright.

    That only left me needing a T connector for the feet, but again, duh, my 2 extra elbows from the A frame, one now on each end for the feet to upright connection. Now, true, unlike the T fittings, the tube of the connectors that the upright will fit into won't be centered, it will be near one end of the connector(an L shape). But so what? I can just run each of the feet into the connector so that they meet in the middle. As long as I have the feet extending out from the upright an adequate amount on each side to provide stability, it should not matter that my foot connector is an L shape, rather than a T, should it? Doesn't seem to me like it should, at all. I can pass thr rail all the way through the elbows, so just have each section meet in the middle of the elbow, and have each foot come out long enough on each side. Maybe, if I think I need th upright to be centered on the total feet length, just cut the lt foot a slightly different length than the Rt foot?

    And if I buy a 1" EMT tubing, drill some holes through it and the fence post up right, that should give me some easy height adjustment. That EMT won't fit snug into the top elbows, so I might have to cut the upright into 3 sections, with the EMT in the middle, fence post on each end. In fact, I might do that on top for easy length adjustment. I have a lot of different hammocks, and they all have different height and length requirements. My RR requires the most length(I think about 15 ft or almost) and the least height. My 90º Hammock Tent requires the least tp rail(tree distance) length, something ridiculous like 7 ft, but requires by far the most height. Actually, I have a 12 ft long SMR Ninox that about ties the 90ºHT for height requirement, but requires more length. So, some quick, easy adjustment(both height and length) would be appreciated.

    But I'm thinking I may have all I need as far as fittings go to do this conversion from A frame to a straight up single upright per end(Spurtle), if I decide it has more pros than cons. And I suspect it does.
    Last edited by BillyBob58; 02-08-2020 at 21:27.

  8. #28
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Piedmont NC
    Hammock
    long and wide
    Tarp
    big green diy
    Insulation
    faux baffled CDTs
    Suspension
    wing and prayer
    Posts
    253
    That's a lot for my small brain to put together without drawing what you describe (which I'll do), but it seems you've got it. One thing I'd recommend is that you pin the connectors instead of relying on the screws that only bite the surface of the poles. I'd drill a hole in the pipe where the connector screws are, and run the connector screw (or a longer one if needed) into the hole to keep the connector, feet, and upright from slipping loose. Color me cautious.

    Somebody more knowledgeable about this should chime in if I'm wrong, but I don't think you'll have a problem if the upright isn't exactly centered over the T connector for the feet. If I'm visualizing your plan correctly, it should be close to centered, within maybe a couple of inches max??? In any case, I'd make the left and right feet each at least 2ft long out from the connector, maybe more for stability if your stand will be taller than about 6 ft and/or if you tend to swing a lot.

    Making the legs adjustable height with 2 sections of top-rail and 1" emt between them is a good plan, I think, fitting your top-rail leg poles (but not swedged ends) into your L connectors. Make sure you allow plenty of overlap between the pipe sections. This will not be a lightweight stand anyway, so no need to skimp there.

    I agree, the fittings at Tarps.com have really high shipping cost, but it could be that's what they have to pay. I know somebody in Albuquerque who bought canopy fittings from a flea market vendor there. They looked exactly like the ones at Tarps.com and about the same price but without the shipping cost. Sadly there's nobody selling anything like that near where I live. Perhaps there's a car / shade/ shelter canopy seller in your area? Outdoor festival vendors everywhere use them to make their display booths, so it seems there have to be other (maybe local) sources for the connectors. Amyway, if your plan works you won;t need to buy more -- unless you build another stand for a hammocking buddy!
    Last edited by WhollyHamaca; 02-08-2020 at 23:45. Reason: can't type with a cat on the keyboard

  9. #29
    Senior Member BillyBob58's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Tupelo, MS
    Posts
    11,108
    Images
    489
    Quote Originally Posted by WhollyHamaca View Post
    ...................................
    Somebody more knowledgeable about this should chime in if I'm wrong, but I don't think you'll have a problem if the upright isn't exactly centered over the T connector for the feet. If I'm visualizing your plan correctly, it should be close to centered, within maybe a couple of inches max??? In any case, I'd make the left and right feet each at least 2ft long out from the connector, maybe more for stability if your stand will be taller than about 6 ft and/or if you tend to swing a lot............................................... .....
    Yep, I'm sure the shipping is so high because this stuff is heavy.

    The bottom part of the pass through elbow connector is 8" long(the upright part in this picture, but in use that part would be on the ground). The center of that would be 4", but the center of the upright will be coming in 2.75" off from that center. But, the feet coming into the connector from each side will still be meeting in the middle of the pass through connector. So it seems to me if I should worry about it at all, the only thing that would matter is if the upright is still in the center of the feet, rather than the connector. So less say the total spread was 4 ft, 2 ft on each side, just make sure the upright is coming in right at the center of those feet, centered at 2 ft from either end, which might require making one of the feet a bit longer than the other. Or, just use a 4 ft bar, centered on the upright. Here is what I would be using, the connectors already in use for my A frame version.

    Last edited by BillyBob58; 02-09-2020 at 17:02.

  10. #30
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Piedmont NC
    Hammock
    long and wide
    Tarp
    big green diy
    Insulation
    faux baffled CDTs
    Suspension
    wing and prayer
    Posts
    253
    OK, I see now what you mean about the offset. I don't think it's a problem. Use one 4ft pipe about half-way through to make both feet, with one end a couple inches longer than the other to center the feet under the upright, just as you said. If you already have two leftover 5ft pipe sections from your A-frame stand just use those for the feet and don't bother cutting them shorter. That's only 6" longer on each side but will add a little more stability.
    You have a good plan and all the parts already, so you can do this right now and try out your new stand tonight! Sonds like you'll need the adjustable height extension to fit all your hammocks, but that can be done when you get a 1" emt & trailer hitch pins and a little time to cut & drill. Show us some pix when you have it set up!

  • + New Posts
  • Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

    Similar Threads

    1. Turtledog Stand vs. Bipod Stand
      By Vanner in forum Do-It-Yourself (DIY)
      Replies: 5
      Last Post: 07-14-2018, 09:06
    2. The Spurtle Stand
      By Willfcc in forum Do-It-Yourself (DIY)
      Replies: 107
      Last Post: 11-18-2016, 09:54
    3. Which Stand?
      By hk2001 in forum General Hammock Talk
      Replies: 12
      Last Post: 04-28-2016, 22:13
    4. Canopy parts stand (carport tent parts) (bipod stand)
      By lxzndr in forum Do-It-Yourself (DIY)
      Replies: 3
      Last Post: 08-30-2015, 19:34
    5. titanium, stand-alone, portable stand
      By rosc in forum Do-It-Yourself (DIY)
      Replies: 15
      Last Post: 10-17-2011, 00:00

    Bookmarks

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •