I am not sure. I know the vendor has been pretty active tweaking existing products and bringing out some new products. I'm sure this is the busiest time of the year keeping up filling orders as well as bumping up the tried and true. They haven't said they would pass on it, and have not returned the prototype. I thought what I would do is patiently wait until after the year turns over and take it from there.
I've been cheating on my 90degree with a ridgerunner, amok and even a GE. I feel guilty.
After sleeping in my ver 2.0 the last couple nights, I'll never have an affair again.
For me, this is the best hammock/tarp combo on the market.
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I found the WBRR had too much squeeze for my liking and passed it along for a bridge aficionado to enjoy. The Amok foot box area has never appealed to me, but I am glad there are folks who like them. I don't mind my GEs, but there is something so pleasant about the comfort of a Hammocktent that is hard to beat, especially if you like to side sleep for a considerable part of the night.
I was sporting my 2.0 mat for ages, but now finally wanting to change the remaining beads for knots as well.
Did you let the remaining strands just hang? Aren't the loose loops in the way somehow or entangle with things etc.?
Also - any slip knot that could work as well? I guess onve the figure 8 has been tightened with body weight, untying gets difficult...
thx!
1) I mark the very bottom of the suspension loop. 2) Some of the strands do not have a figure 8, only the ones I want to shorten, i.e. starting at the top 2-9 under the head end and 12-16 under my thighs, knees, and calves. (the ones at the head end provide more lift for the head end for me) 3) I tie a figure eight and the size of the figure eight determines how much lift. I use a progression in sizes for a smooth curved lift, e.g. the figure eight loops under the thighs are less than under the knees and then back to smaller loops toward the calves with no loops at the last four at the foot end. 4) Since the bottom of the figure eight loop is still the longest point in the suspension strand I can tuck the figure 8 under the fabric hammock loops on the body of the hammock so that they are out of the way.
The figure 8 knots end up tight as can be after use, i.e. body weight. But I can loosen them with an awl or similar smooth tapered tool.
Thanks, I think I got the main approach. Though what do you mean by size? How much line is dangling unused and shortened away under the figure 8?
It would be a double line, like in the first superiors steps here:
https://www.survivalsullivan.com/figure-of-eight-knot/
And then depending how high/low you set the figure 8, the shortening is determined.
To illustrate:
====8========ridgeline
=========8===ridgeline
=======8=====ridgeline
So you'd have a certain amount of unused line hanging under the figure 8 and not in tension anymore. Do you deal with this somehow? Our is it so little as the shortening is just a wee bit that it also disappears under the fabric loops of the hammock?
Thanks!
It looks like you have the general idea. The loops below the figure eight are about 1/4-3/8 inch at the head end of the hammock. The ones at the thigh to the lower calves start at 3/8", get progressively longer to about 1.1/4" under the knee, and then taper back to 1/2" at the lower calves. I have the earlier HT90s that have the 1/2 inch fabric band where the suspension attaches to the hammock body. I am able to tuck the loops under the fabric band since they are at the very end of the suspension. The newer design HTs don't have this fabric band, and the loops would be exposed. But that shouldn't be a problem. In the pic you can also see the marker color where the very bottom of the suspension is. This is the tip of the figure eight knot in order to make sure the figure eight loop and suspension are formed at the bottom of the suspension. HT90suspensionloops.jpg
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