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  1. #1
    Senior Member Baka Dasai's Avatar
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    Making whoopies as small as possible for close tree spacing

    Quick questions:

    1. In a 7/64 amsteel whoopie, what's the minimum distance between the bury for the locked brummel, and the "adjuster" bury? Does it matter?

    2. In a 7/64 amsteel whoopie or a UCR, what's the minimum size of the locked brummel loop? Does it matter (as long as it's big enough to feed the other end through with a larks head)?

    Thanks! (this splicing thing is addictive)

  2. #2
    Senior Member Kroma's Avatar
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    Just use continuous loops for the times when your tree spacing is not ideal for whoopies.

  3. #3
    Senior Member novasquid's Avatar
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    i think i read somewhere on this board that the adjustable bury should ideally be 10" but some have gone 8". fwiw, the whoopies off my warbonnet xlc hammock have a 5.25" adjustable bury and they've never slipped on me but then i'm only 150 pounds.

  4. #4
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    I have whoopies with hooks. I'm using 1"eyes, spliced with about 2" of bury behind the brummel, larks headed to my tree straps. I started my bury about 1/2" from the tail end of the eye and only have about 7" of bury. I have found it to be adequate provided that once I set my length, I smooth over the outer sheath so it can really cinch down. If I don't do that I find myself on the ground in the morning. It's such a slow let down that I don't notice it, but it happens. It could be that I'm just lucky and have made magic whoopies, or it could be something else. I'm not exactly svelte, at 210, but not a huge feller either. I can span some pretty short distances with this setup, shorter than my tarp is, even. I'm not advocating going against manufacturers recommendation all willy nilly, but have found it to be a bit overkill. If you try it my way, you could end up slowly dropping to the ground, or you maybe hang blissfully in the air. As with any new piece of gear, test everything well before you hit the back country.

    Cheers,
    the Goat
    Cheers,
    The Goat

  5. #5
    Senior Member Double's Avatar
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    No there doesnt need to be a gap between the end of the bury on the locked brummel. I start my constrictor bury as close as i can. Granted its about 6 inches away due to the tail needing 6-8 inches for make strength retention. The eye can be made as big as you want. If im larks heading it around a hammock or the end of a hugger i like on inch. On the other hand if you are doing a marlin spike the usually i do 3 inches so you can easily get around the toggle (this is if you are using a whoopy hook or ucr).

    Hope that helps

    Edited due to brain skipping and leaving out words

  6. #6
    Senior Member zukiguy's Avatar
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    Just curious.....how do you hang a tarp when the trees are so close together than you're trying to shave inches off the whoopies? All my tarp ridgelines are significantly longer than the hammocks. This is one of the reasons I hang the tarp first. That way I know I'll have room for the hammock.

    If the trees are too close I just move. So far I've never had a problem finding a suitable spot. The only exception has been hanging inside the screen enclosures along the Suwannee River here in FL. I had to skip my suspension on the WBRR entirely and connect the tops of the triangles right to the hanging points.

  7. #7
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    A loopie sling will close down about 10" shorter than a whoopie. You can do away with the prusik by whipping right on the bury exit, which also helps prevent fraying. However, as a loopie has to be free to move while adjusting, you'll need a softshackle or biner to attach to the tree strap. So, assuming 2" of advantage is lost per side due to shackle/biner, this still gives 16" more leeway between trees vs whoopies.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Baka Dasai's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double View Post
    No there doesnt need to be a gap between the end of the bury on the locked brummel. I start my constrictor bury as close as i can. Granted its about 6 inches away due to the tail needing 6-8 inches for make strength retention. The eye can be made as big as you want. If im larks heading it around a hammock or the end of a hugger i like on inch.
    Thanks, that was exactly what I wanted to hear
    I'm not looking to make the buries shorter, just to shave off distance everywhere else.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Bubba's Avatar
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    Here's a handy chart Boston posted a while back:



    To be honest I've gone shorter than these recommendations with no failures so do so at your own risk. My slings usually have an 8 inch adjustable bury and a 5 inch fixed eye bury (which includes an inch of taper). The shortest my slings can go is about 15 to 16 inches. I know the risks and am willing to go below specs on the fixed eye bury but the I don't go below the recommended length for the adjustable bury to ensure good constriction.
    Last edited by Bubba; 10-19-2016 at 11:25.
    Don't let life get in the way of living.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Double's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baka Dasai View Post
    Thanks, that was exactly what I wanted to hear
    Glad i could help! Once you start splicing it opens up a world of possibilities to customize your gear.

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