Picked this up on Amazon Lightening Deal $125 (I believe). I have already injected some thread. Made a RSBTR Hex 12 std winter tarp and snake skin out of ripstop 1.1. Worked great and was easy to use right out of the box.
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Be careful what you're using where. If you have one of the old black Singers don't use alcohol on the finish it will take the clear coat right off as well as the gold part of the decals. That is the place to use the kerosene as it won't do that. Use whatever you have on the messes inside the machine.Originally Posted by Debi Jaytee
I have a question and I know I'll find my answer here
I have an old maintenance guide that calls for using kerosene as a cleaning fluid (eek!). What can I use as an alternative? Don't want to burn my house down, I need it to sew in.
Thanks in advance
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Agreed.. I have the same machine and I'm very happy with it.
Picked this up on Amazon Lightening Deal $125 (I believe). I have already injected some thread. Made a RSBTR Hex 12 std winter tarp and snake skin out of ripstop 1.1. Worked great and was easy to use right out of the box.
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Question for you Pfaff owners, in particular the 1400 series. I'm trying to determine if the hole on the front right of the needle plate accepts a screw for a seam guide, hem or binding attachment, etc. All of my vintage machines have two holes, I've seen just one on some 80's & 90's machines. Two is better, but I've gotten by with one in a pinch when I couldn't find a screw.
Anyway, looking over pics on eBay, it seems that the 1473, 1475, & 1467 all have a hole beneath that hole, while the 1471 does not. Could be that with the change from the brown to the white casting they remembered to tap the hole? I've asked on the yahoo Pfaff group but the mods are glacial in approving things from new members, so just trying to collect experience from actual owners.
Thanks to anyone who can assist..
It also occurred to me - I sense this is more of a show and tell the head, that's been used for various questions like mine in the past. Is there another thread in the donating members about machine discussion?
-jr / MrC
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There is a lot of products we can use for cleaning and maintaining a sewing machine. What to use depends on the job and in some cases what the manual says.
Always remove the power cord! If the power source is removed its much safer for you (mandatory in my book) and the risk of fire is marginal. Nearly all fluent chemicals evaporates relative quickly.
Read the instructions on the product before use (be safe) and if it requires ventilation respect it.
Use paper towels. Oil and rags can catch fire in worst case.
This is what I use:
- Clean hot water.
- Dishwasher soap.
- Alcohol.
- WD40. I won’t recommend WD40 for lubrication but it actually also works as a cleaner (for some tasks) and can also be used on most painted surfaces.
- Break cleaner (automotive product). This product is excellent if you have a slipping belt. If the belts condition + the tension is ok and the belt drives have been cleaned with this it will not slip again.
- Belt spray (automotive product). Can be used if you have a old dry tired belt but I won’t recommend spending money on this product but if you have it you can use it.
Remove the belt before using this spray! You do not want this stuff all over the machine. If you need this product better spend your $ on a new belt.- Acid free sewing machine oil.
- Vacuum cleaner.
- Caned Compressed air. Can be used in places that are not easy to get to but use with care. Available in some computer/electronics shops.
If there is nothing left to learn it’s time to die.
Live and learn.
Re: cleaning, I don't touch old machines with water. Ever. I use 91% isopropyl for spot cleaning. Kerosene works well on the innards since it helps with removing varnish and provides lubrication for moving stuck parts to clean, just need to wipe or blow it off. Simple Green works too if kerosene isn't your thing, it's non toxic will strip old grease and grime but does not react well with some paints/decals. For a seriously seized machine a bath in either will do wonders. Lately though Auto brake cleaner is what I use most often for first round, since it evaporates with no residue and is super effective at getting the oldest toughest layer of grease and oil off, which makes second round of kerosene + oil much more effective.
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I just did what I should've done all along and called Brubaker's; they confirmed that the 1471 is not drilled, but the 73/75/67 are.
Well I finally got mine back, and set up a small folding table in my room that will double as a sewing station and an rc workbench for my drift cars. Wish I didn't have to work second shift, can't wait to start making my quilts and tarp.
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CThanger86- you might want to scrounge up a sturdier table. Your thread injector will tend to bounce a lot on a card table especially if you sew fast.
Yeah I plan on it, but just to get me started it will do for the time being.
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