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  1. #1
    Senior Member dblhmmck's Avatar
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    Semi-Gathered Bridge in 8 steps

    Introducing the Semi-Gathered Bridge hammock. This variation of the bridge has four main benefits.
    SGB_occupied_UQ.JPGsemi_gathered_headend.JPGsemi_gathered_footend.JPG
    1. Comfort and support. I know comfort is subjective. However, the shortened arcs with the recessed poles help give more effective lift for a flatter lay.

    2. Simple to make with one piece body construction.

    3. Sets up under a smaller tarp. This is due to the recessed spreader bars. And further by the slight taper and shorter foot spreader bar. I have used a 10' hex tarp with this design, which is enough coverage in all but the very worst situations.

    4. Fits the commercially available Arrowhead Ridge Creek quilt. Perhaps with some very small modifications, or not.

    Before making this hammock, this tutorial is best for somebody who has already made a bridge hammock. Otherwise watching the videos by Grizz or HIkingDad is advised.
    This hammock was designed for my height, which is a tad over 5' 10". I think somebody from 5" 9" - 5' 11" could use this plan unaltered. For people from 5' 11" - 6' 1", I believe simply making the arcs 2" longer, for an overall fabric length of 110" should work well. For people from 5' 7"- 5' 9", I believe simply making the arcs 2" shorter for an overall fabric length of 106" should work well. Beyond that, I don't know as it is completely untested.

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    Here is the complete list of material that make up this hammock.

    HyperD 1.6 3 yards -hammock body

    3/8" kevlar strap 16 feet or 1/2" Polypro strap 16 feet -lateral arcs and corner loops

    7/64 Amsteel 10-14 feet- suspension triangles. 10 feet is for 34" head end spreader, 14 feet is plenty for 39".

    1.75 mm Lash-it 7 1/2 feet- for gathering the end of the hammock body into the end triangles

    3/4" thin nylon strap 3 1/2 feet - 8 sections sewn into "X" shapes with a small channel sewn at the end of each leg. These are tied into the ends of my suspension triangles and hold a variety of spreader bars or trekking poles. My 8 pieces were 5 1/2" long each, and I could have gotten away with 4 3/4" each.

    52" carbon Bigstik from LuxuryLite -this comes apart to be used as both spreader bars. (These lengths are no longer "stock", but can be ordered in any length from the company). OR use your RidgeRunner poles, perhaps with the tips removed. OR use your trekking poles, whatever you have.

    Gutterman thread
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    Construction:

    1. Cut the fabric to the dimensions in the diagram. Remember to make adjustments to the lateral arc lengths if your height is out side of the range from 5'9" to 5" 11". Fabric used was the HyperD 1.6, which I am super pleased with for the comfort.

    2. Roll a hem around the perimeter of the fabric, but don't hem the arcs.

    3. At the top edge of the fabric, fold it over and sew a 1" channel. Also, create a 1" channel for each of the angled corner edges. Repeat this at the bottom edge of the fabric, and the bottom angled corner edges too. CAUTION: While stitching the channel, stop a 1/2" or so before the ends where the channels meet. This is to ensure that the channel doesn't get sewn closed.

    4. Cut four lengths of 3/8" strap 5" long. Sew these along the top hem of the hammock body where the ends of the channel are (in each corner). They should be adjacent to the ends of the channel. As you sew them on create tiny loops in the middle of each 5" length. Just big enough to put some Lash-it cord through there.

    5. Pin a length of 3/8 strap 1/2" inside the cut edge of the arcs, and sew it on. Roll the strap and sew a line of stitching at the top and bottom edges of the strap. The straps that I am using are 3/8" kevlar that I bought on eBay. I am extremely happy with them for my lateral arcs. But 1/2" polypro webbing works great too.

    6. Now form small loops at the ends of each strap, by folding the strap over on itself for 5". Sew that on, and cut any excess strap.

    7. I used 6' of 7/64 Amsteel and a 34" spreader bar to form the head end suspension triangle. The two Amsteel sides of the triangle ended up to be 24". I used just under 5' of 7/64 Amsteel and a spreader bar of 20" to form the foot end triangle. The two Amsteel sides of the triangle ended up to be 19". Note: since writing this, I have been using 37" spreader 23" at the foot.suspention_triangles.png
    These suspension lengths are made for somebody 150 pounds. If you are larger than that, there is flexibility in this design to use larger suspension triangles. This is also true if you experience "shoulder squeeze". Just remember to lengthen the Amsteel in the same proportion that you lengthen the spreader bars. The fabric will accommodate the RidgeRunner poles, but probably that is the max size for spreaders.

    8. Cut two pieces of Lash-it. One is 4', the other is 3 1/2'. String the longer piece of Lash-it through the channels at the head end. Tie a tiny bowline knot with the Lash-it that comes out of each end of the channel equally. The knot should go through the corner strap loops that you created in step 4. They should also go around the Amsteel suspension, so the weight of the gather is supported by the Amsteel, not simply the strap loops *. Now take the remaining lengths of Lash-it and tie them together at the apex. I used a square knot. Repeat this process at the foot end.
    lash-it_loops.png
    The back story on this hammock is that I started in 2007. I was designing a hammock when I found HF. I started to participate in the thread called "Bridge Hammock".
    The people who were the most help to me in developing my bridge design, were big contributors in that thread long ago. So I send a big "Thank-you" out to Grizzly Adams, TeeDee, Mule, Hangnout, WarbonnetGuy, Walking bear, and you too, if you helped me.
    Last edited by dblhmmck; 06-17-2016 at 21:43. Reason: Correction on Amsteel lengths

  2. #2
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    Very interesting and looks like you put a lot of work into this design. Although I might be at my hammock limit, I'm adding this to my list of DIY items.

    I just finished a bridge hammock last week and after the last few days of it hanging in the house (which isn't hanging properly at all) I have two requests. This project might get moved to the top of the list.

    Well done and thanks for sharing.

  3. #3
    Senior Member dblhmmck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rekoob View Post
    Very interesting and looks like you put a lot of work into this design. ...

    Well done and thanks for sharing.
    Thanks Rekoob,

    Yes I have slept hundreds of nights in this design of hammock, and put lots of thought into it. I have slept 5 nights on this newest one, still testing what width I like best. Best wishes with your DIY projects.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Intimidator's Avatar
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    I am into DIY bridges and have made one and am working on two more. This is a really cool design. I am working toward creating a hammock that has a good view from the inside to your surroundings, while allowing for the least possible shoulder squeeze. Great innovation my friend!

    Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
    -Carter

    www.RipstopbytheRoll.com| "The Best Fabrics on Earth. Guaranteed."

  5. #5
    Senior Member dblhmmck's Avatar
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    The view is a big plus for me too regarding bridge hammock designs. I am glad you see potential in this design.

  6. #6
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    Looks very cool! I am a newbie but can see how this style would be pretty comfortable. Also looks like it would make using a pad under you easier than a gathered end... maybe.
    Do the bars come out easily? Wondering because I think I'd still want to use it as a seat sometimes but doesn't look possible with the bars in there.

  7. #7
    Senior Member dblhmmck's Avatar
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    Thanks!

    The bars are quickly removable and interchangeable. It makes a very comfortable seat with the spreader bars in it.

    Two things about using a pad with this bridge hammock. First, it should be a double layer so the pad does not slip around. Second, using 26" pads 3" thick take a lot of volume out of the footbox. If I wanted to use this bridge hammock primarily with pads I would not taper the design. This design call for a taper from the head to foot from 49" -41". Instead, keep the foot width as wide as the head, and that will give more room for your feet with big, wide, thick rectangular pads.
    Last edited by dblhmmck; 06-16-2016 at 17:15.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Otter1's Avatar
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    dblhmmck,

    This is beautiful simplicity!

    How much does it weigh?

  9. #9
    Senior Member dblhmmck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Otter1 View Post
    dblhmmck,

    This is beautiful simplicity!

    How much does it weigh?
    Thanks a lot Otter1,
    It was your post on "kevlar Mule Tape" that made me aware of the product that I used for the lateral arcs. That turned out to be the most comfortable thing ever for arc material. It is hardly noticeable rolled into the hem. It is equivalent in size to wide shoe laces.

    Thanks in big part to that it brings the weight of the hammock, excluding tree straps to 8.56 ounces!.
    I have some aluminum poles 37" and 23" that weigh 7.1 ounces. Or I can use my carbon walking staff to get 34" and 20", at a weight of 9.64 ounces.
    Last edited by dblhmmck; 06-16-2016 at 19:31.

  10. #10
    Senior Member GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    nice work, as usual!
    Grizz
    (alias ProfessorHammock on youtube)

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