Semi-Gathered Bridge in 8 steps

[dblhmmck]

I have been working on a couple different bug net designs for the SGB hammock. The netting is a little more complex when you take the hammock body beyond the spreader bars. So as a first step, I make a shape to fill each end, taking it back to the spreader bars.
wavy_net_top.jpgwavy_head_end.JPG
I take the measurements for these pieces with the hammock set up. You can see these shapes clearly in the photos because they are made with RealTimber camo netting. I also sewed two long pieces of this same material to the lateral arcs. This is to help ease tension from the zipper. But, you can see in the photo that I eased it too much. So I am still working out that aspect of the design.
wavy_net.JPG
Also, where the big gather is at the head end, that makes a good place to put a storage pouch. The second shot is taken reaching from inside the hammock
storage_head_end_left.JPGhead_end_middle_storage.JPG
I untied the lash-it from the head end, and sewed a pocket along the middle portion of the channel. The material shape was an oval roughly 20" tall and 30" wide. But I don't think it would make much difference if a rectangle that size was used. That would make the hemming easier. I also have two additional more conventional pockets for items like camera or headlamp. The middle storage is for insulating clothes.


For ColdFunky, who asked about pads. This is the new Klymit Insulated Static V Luxe; 76" X 30" X 3".
wrap_around_pad.JPG
It makes the bug net a bit close with such a huge pad on the inside of the hammock. That is because I have not sewn a sleeve for it on the bottom of the hammock. But this allows you to see the wrap around coverage that you can get. And this hammock does NOT taper, just as I mentioned in post #7 of this thread.

Meanwhile I am working on another bug net design without a zipper. Let me know if you have any questions.

[raftingtigger]

I used an earlier version of this hammock design (one Dblhammck made) on my recent Utah trip. It was made for a kid, and is a little bit short for me. In spite of that I found it very comfortable and simple. I was going to bug DblHammck for plans so I could make a 6" longer one. He may even convert me from gathered end to bridge for routine sleeping. Thanks again.

[dblhmmck]

Everybody likes multi-use items when backpacking. And using trekking poles for bridge hammock spreader bars seems like a great idea. I know a lot of people use the Mountainsmith Trekker camera mount pole for bridge hammocks such as the WBRR. They seem to work well for people, and the price is certainly attractive. But at 14 ounces for each of the Mountainsmith poles, I wanted to find alternatives for my SGB hammock.

I ordered another carbon BigStik from LuxuryLite, so that I could have a complete back-up hammock system. The owner, Bruce, was quite interested in why I was asking for the custom lengths of the component pieces. He had suggestions about how he could offer further customization to fit my needs. It cost me $172, which is about $20 more than his standard non-customized BigStik. I think it is a fair price, for an extravagant carbon staff. At 9.3 ounces, it saves me 18.7 ounces over the Mountainsmith poles. Of course, there is the difference of carrying a single staff, rather than two trekking poles. But that is a swap that I am happy to make. Others may feel differently, HYOH and all of that.

There is also a middle way. The price falls near the middle of the two other options too. That is the bridge version of the NoGround pole, made by Raftingtigger. She has a thread about it here on HF. I can carry a single pole, which I prefer, and carry a small 8"pole piece in my pack. The combination makes up two complete spreader bars. She is also able to offer tips on the poles to fit the WBRR corner spreader bar holders, or the titanium version of those from Dutch. I didn't go for that option personally. I ordered the non-adjusting version at 47" counting the covered camera mount at the top. The top of my handle grips is 45 1/4". The best news for me about this option, is that the weight comes within an ounce of the carbon BigStik; only 10.3 ounces for the NOGround bridge pole (including the weight of the 8" section)!! In fact you could get two NoGround poles; one for the bridge spreader bars, and one for a truss. You would still be carrying less weight than the Mountainsmith poles. You would also be adding some serious versatility.

[Dave-O]

Dblhmmck,

Thanks for sharing this design!

I take the measurements for these pieces with the hammock set up. You can see these shapes clearly in the photos because they are made with RealTimber camo netting. I also sewed two long pieces of this same material to the lateral arcs. This is to help ease tension from the zipper. But, you can see in the photo that I eased it too much. So I am still working out that aspect of the design.

For the shapes at the top and bottom of the hammock is the top edge the same width as the gathered end before or after the end is gathered? I figured it would be about the same length prior to gathering the hammock otherwise it would seem too almost impossible to sew the two edges together. However, I didn't want to assume.

I also really thought it was interesting how you ran the netting underneath the spreader bars instead of above them.

[dblhmmck]

Dblhmmck,

Thanks for sharing this design!



For the shapes at the top and bottom of the hammock is the top edge the same width as the gathered end before or after the end is gathered? I figured it would be about the same length prior to gathering the hammock otherwise it would seem too almost impossible to sew the two edges together. However, I didn't want to assume.

I also really thought it was interesting how you ran the netting underneath the spreader bars instead of above them.

You are welcome, DaveO!

To answer your question, the foot end is the same length as the gathered end after. But there is an additional thing going on with the head end shape, where it ends up being shorter than the gathered length.

On the foot end, I like to distribute more of the gather towards the outsides, when sewing the pieces together. It is just a theory that it gives me a little more room for my feet.
foot_gather.JPG
On the head end, I have quite a bit of space between the polygon top netting, and the gather of the hammock body. I am reaching between the two in this photo.
head_end_middle_storage.JPG
And here is the shot of the head end polygon. The gathered material that you see, is mostly the storage pouch which started as a large oval. And when I sewed that onto the hammock body, I did take out the lash-it, and sewed the oval along the ungathered length of the material.
head_gather_is_pouch.JPG
Edited to add: I pin these pieces together before sewing.

[dblhmmck]

I was asked about how the WB Lynx UQ fit with the SGB hammock. I took some pictures today to show that.
lynx_bottom.JPG
I modified the quilt at the head end attachments by sewing a shock chord loop on each side. It is not really necessary, but the intention was to pull the quilt up towards the head a bit more. When I lie in the hammock without a pillow, I can feel the top edge of the quilt about an inch down from the top of my head. This works out fine for me, since I use a pillow.
lynx_mod.jpg
At the foot end, since my hammock is shorter than the WBRR, I fasten the foot end carabiners to each other below the foot spreader.
lynx_foot_connect.JPG
I accidentally tested the Lynx ability to completely support my weight, on a backpacking trip last month. It held me up in a totally ripped hammock for a half hour before the dawn, when I got up. I could detect no damage to the quilt, but of course I don't recommend anybody try this.

[dblhmmck]

I made a storage pouch today. Partly to verify if a 30" X 20" rectangle would work as well as an oval of the same size. And partly to answer Dave-O's question about the head end gather versus the polygon width of netting that gets sewn on above it.

So it does work fine, and is easier to hem. A couple things that I found out while doing it. It is easier to start out with a little extra Lash-it length. Reusing my 4' piece was a bit difficult, but doable. And threading the second chord around the square corners was a bit difficult, but it can be done if you don't sew the channel closed at the corners by accident.pouch_front.JPGpouch_filled.JPG

Construction:

1. Cut a rectangle 30" X 20". I took the widest remnants of my fabric, where the arcs had been cut out. I was able to get a piece from each side, sewn together the long way It ended up with a two curved sides that were about 24" wide. I cut it straight across to get my 30" X 20" piece.

2. Hem all the way around.

3. Fold a 1" channel along the top and half way down each side. Stop the stitches from reaching the corners of the channels about 1 1/2" short. That way you are not sewing the channel closed.

4. Remove Lash-it from head end.

5. Center the rectangle on the top edge of the hammock on the unchanneled half of the rectangle. Sew the two pieces together along the seam in the top channel of the hammock body to preserve the functionality of the channel. Also sew the lower half of each side, stop before you close the channel that begins at the upper half. I had to make a few pleats in the lower half of those side lengths to accomplish this.

6. Rethread your Lash-it through the hammock body channel. But before you tie it, string another piece of cordage through the same channel. This will become the drawstring of the stuff sack.

7. Now retie the Lash-it into the apex as described in step #8 of the original build instructions.

8. Thread the second piece of cordage through the channels that you sewed on the top half of the perimeter of the rectangle.

9. Put a cord lock on the two ends of the cord. And cut the excess cord.

That's it! Now you have a storage pouch and a stuff sack. The stuff sack is a bit large for the hammock with more than enough room for when we add the bug net. The weight is just under an ounce for the mod.
pouch_stuffsack.JPG

[Dave-O]

Dblhmmck,

For the bugnet I'm still try to wrap my brain around sewing two pieces of material together that are different lengths but have the same two end points (it must be the engineer in me). Maybe it's because I've never tried it before. Do you have any suggestions on making sure it all works out?

Thanks again!

[TheMushroom]

Dblhmmck,

For the bugnet I'm still try to wrap my brain around sewing two pieces of material together that are different lengths but have the same two end points (it must be the engineer in me). Maybe it's because I've never tried it before. Do you have any suggestions on making sure it all works out?

Thanks again!

I do same length, different end points, all the time. But never on purpose. Sorry.

[raftingtigger]

Dblhmmck,

If you were to make another SGB would you use the Kevlar mule tape again? Or would you use regular webbing? Also, no promises, but if some aluminum spreader pole ends (aka the purple kids bridge) were to show up in you mailbox, what size pole should they fit?