smallest continuous loops

[MAD777]

One bury needs to be 5-3/4" long. That's 2 fids + 1/2 fid taper. (Fid=21 rope diameters)

The other bury can simply be a 1" long taper. All the load is supported per spec by one bury.

Loosely sew stitches in both sides. No locked brummel is necessary with these lock stitches. (Don't stitch tight, because they will break when the load is applied.)

This will give a loop with a 7" circumference.

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[jadekayak]

Thanks for all the replies.
the reason I was asking was that I got some Dutch double whoopie hooks on whoopie slings. I got these to try out the spreader bar to hang two hammocks next to each other. After I got to looking at the double whoopie hooks and using them a little bit, I really like the way they work, but I could see how the whoopie slings could limit you a bit on trees that are a little closer than ideal. So I thought about a short loop of Amsteel with a whoopie hook threaded through it, larks head that around the loop of a cinch buck strap. Use the whoopie hook to connect to the hammock's continuous loop as normal, then adjust length as you would with any cinch buckle/strap system. This should allow you to use trees that are a little closer than ideal. I haven't tried it yet and to be of any use, the loop has to be short ! I'm sure someone has already done it though !

Thanks, J

You could just use hammock cogs with a short loop for the short hang.
It only requires a single line from the tree straps and the cog is the adjusting device as well.

When you want to you can go back to the whoopie or just continue with the single line/cog setup

[Time to Hang]

You could just use hammock cogs with a short loop for the short hang.
It only requires a single line from the tree straps and the cog is the adjusting device as well.

When you want to you can go back to the whoopie or just continue with the single line/cog setup

I'm not familiar with Hammock Cogs, can you explain them or shoot a picture or link ?
thanks, J

[Time to Hang]

Answered my own question. They should work too.
Thanks, J

[jadekayak]

I'm not familiar with Hammock Cogs, can you explain them or shoot a picture or link ?
thanks, J

Sorry,I can barely drive the basic forum tools and post pics.

If you go to vendor-other

And scroll down a little bit you will find a "cog discussion" post by timplatt.

The cog is a ring device about 50-60 mm across with a hole in the middle and 6 evenly spaced teeth that you loop/line engages.

The line end uses friction knots in conjunction with the teeth so you only need 1 line from your tree straps.

Much lighter than tree straps and double descender rings or a cinch buckle set up.
They ate quick,easy,and overall very light with great versatility.

I am going to order a paiy soon.

[sqidmark]

I also use standard 8in CL with DWH spliced on for spreader bar. If the trees are far enough apart, I'll larks head on an extra CL onto hammock CL to move bar outside of the tarp.

[Theguywitheyebrows]

I've gotten mine down to 4" or so end-to-end, my buries all like fray almost out of the "sheath" part. Making then where the taper of the buries are kinda overlapping, creating a solid circumference through the entire bury. Semi solid, mostly the same fatness, whatever the easy way to say that is. I hang on them that short on my stand in my home, on trees on the trail, never had one slip any mich less drop me. Im right at 270lbs and 5'8".

EDIT: i use dutch-made 8" CLs with my DHWH, j-bend the CL to the strap, and slip my hammock CL over the hook. The part where the hook catches the CL needs to not have any bury, 7/64 dia. Or the hook wont seat properly. Have one 'standard' CL and one shorty on each hammock to ensure the DHWH can be used if required. My DHWH CLs are yellow for differentiation.

[gfortune]

One bury needs to be 5-3/4" long. That's 2 fids + 1/2 fid taper. (Fid=21 rope diameters)

The other bury can simply be a 1" long taper. All the load is supported per spec by one bury.

Loosely sew stitches in both sides. No locked brummel is necessary with these lock stitches. (Don't stitch tight, because they will break when the load is applied.)

This will give a loop with a 7" circumference.

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Do you mind linking a reference for the "The other bury can simply be a 1" long taper. All the load is supported per spec by one bury." part of your post?

The info I've been using for continuous loops is http://www.samsonrope.com/Documents/...or_End_WEB.pdf (in my head, a continuous loop is just an end for end splice that happens to be done with one piece of rope). Samson is recommending a full bury on each side. Further, the bury is 3 fid including a 1 fid taper. Assuming 7/64 is really 2.5mm instead of the 2.8mm that 7/64 implies, then the fid comes out to just over 2". That gives about 6.25" of bury/taper (I'm going 6.5" instead to make marking the line for taper and bury on 1/4 points).

For 7/64, that gives a minimum circumference of 12.5" if not overlapping the tapers inside the bury.

[Time to Hang]

I think for my idea, the easiest way is to use the double fisherman's loop with a DWH threaded on.
Thanks, for all the great info !
J

[Theguywitheyebrows]

A double fishermans loop wont hold with amsteel though, too slippery. I overlap my tapers and i utilize only 3" of bury to get my tiny CLs, works great for me. I make every other one that way, actually; one the DHWH can snap onto and one that ends up far too fat for the dutch bling.