smallest continuous loops

[Time to Hang]

What are the smallest 7/64 Amsteel continous loops that you can make ? I remember seeing a chart or something that lists recomended bury lengths and such but I can't remember where.

Any help would be appreciated !

Thanks, J

[Phantom Grappler]

Samson rope has all kinds of tables detailing minimum bury length on splices. If you follow all their recommendations your continuous loop will not be small. But their guidelines are for safety for life and limb. If you are hanging in a hammock on flat soft ground--close to the ground you may choose to be less "safe" and use a locked brummel and shorter than recommended bury lengths. You will be trusting your weight and safety to mostly the locked brummel and a short bury. For a hammock at low chair height with your feet touching the ground when sitting. And only one person of average weight in hammock--I think you have nothing to worry about--with 7/64 amsteel or 1/8amsteel.
Good luck, have fun and be careful out there.


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[SilvrSurfr]

For some reason, I thought Samson recommended a minimum of 8" of bury length for continuous loops. However, I've always used Opie's pictoral to remind me how to do continuous loops and he uses 6" buries.

https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...light=pictoral

One thing I ALWAYS do is put 4 or 5 lock stitches on either side of the locked brummel. Before I started doing that, I occasionally had continuous loops come undone. I have gone shorter than Opie's six inches, but I always use the lock stitches.

As I recall, Buttinasling starts with 27.5 or 28.5 inches with four-inch buries for the continuous loops they provide with their hammocks, but I can't find the post on that.

[jadekayak]

What are the smallest 7/64 Amsteel continous loops that you can make ? I remember seeing a chart or something that lists recomended bury lengths and such but I can't remember where.

Any help would be appreciated !

Thanks, J

Before you make any,check out tachblade's video on improved soft shackles.

I've made 2 loops using 1.9mm dyneema(left over from a failed project)

I pulled the bury right through to the insertion point then buried the other tail.
Had to taper both ends.

Loop looks good and tight and should now be double original line strength-no locked Brummel.
I used it with an eye thimble for 3mm rope and whipped the part closest to thimble.

Posted in another thread with my suspension "boot" and you can see it on the hook.

[GadgetUK437]

I've done some really small ones by overlapping the buries. Not a problem fitting the two lines inside the constrictor, just have to take care not to snag the first when you pull the second thru'. Leave the tail of the first sticking out, until you have buried the second, that way you won't pull its fibres the wrong way.

[sqidmark]

Alternatively you could use double fisherman's along with cordage better suited for knots. Make 'em any length you want.

[jadekayak]

Alternatively you could use double fisherman's along with cordage better suited for knots. Make 'em any length you want.

I wondered if that would be any good with dyneema.
I try to keep MAXIMUIM line strength and use 3mm.

[Time to Hang]

Thanks for all the replies.
the reason I was asking was that I got some Dutch double whoopie hooks on whoopie slings. I got these to try out the spreader bar to hang two hammocks next to each other. After I got to looking at the double whoopie hooks and using them a little bit, I really like the way they work, but I could see how the whoopie slings could limit you a bit on trees that are a little closer than ideal. So I thought about a short loop of Amsteel with a whoopie hook threaded through it, larks head that around the loop of a cinch buck strap. Use the whoopie hook to connect to the hammock's continuous loop as normal, then adjust length as you would with any cinch buckle/strap system. This should allow you to use trees that are a little closer than ideal. I haven't tried it yet and to be of any use, the loop has to be short ! I'm sure someone has already done it though !

Thanks, J

[sqidmark]

I wondered if that would be any good with dyneema.
I try to keep MAXIMUIM line strength and use 3mm.

Good point, forgot about that aspect.

[Redoleary]

You have a couple of options when you run into the whoopie being too long for your trees: 1. What you're proposing sounds like it would work fine. 2. You can just not use it and hang your hammock continuous loop over the MSH (but you can't use your spreader bar. 3. Make your whoopie sling 3x as long as you need it and go from the MSH down THRU the hammock loop back up the the MSH the down and attach to the hammock loop. It can be a bit fiddly to adjust but still better than sleeping on the ground.