Thread Injector issues. Can anyone help me out?

[bigsig11010]

Thank you so much Mrs. Squidbilly. I appreciate you taking time to reply. I got to meet Mr. Squidbilly out in Bankhead a couple of years ago. Your information is great and it has really caused me to question what I was doing to begin with. I thought based on other information that I had read or seen on youtube that at the beginning and at the end of each seam on the piece I am working on that I had to "lock" the seam or stitch by reversing directions for a few stitches at each end. Based on what you have shown me Im guessing that isnt necessary?? It looks like you started on scrap piece then just ran onto and down your seam then off onto another scrap piece? Did you reverse stitch at all on your working piece? Is that somthing just isnt necessary or am I just doing it wrong or maybe I have my terminology confused? The information I was working with said that each seam had to be "locked" at each end of the seam on the work piece so that it wouldnt just unravel and all pull out if the seam got pulled or something like that.

The issue I am having occurs whenever I do the reverse stitch thing and it doesnt matter where I put the take up lever before I try to remove the work because the knot from the extra bobbin loop is already knotted up under there. If it isnt necessary to reverse and lock the seam stitch my problem would be solved.

[FourRingCircus]

How fast are you doing the reverse stitch? As in - I have one machine where I have to stop, reverse, stop, then go a couple forward... if I am going along and hit the button too fast it gets all jammed up - it's on an older machine I am having tension/skipping issues with already so I am thinking it's all linked together. My other machine I can just go full speed and hit the reverse without issue.

[Ramblinrev]

The information I was working with said that each seam had to be "locked" at each end of the seam on the work piece so that it wouldnt just unravel and all pull out if the seam got pulled or something like that.

Welcome to the world of advanced sewing tricks. The question of locking the stitch line is somewhat ambiguous in many cases. First of all... using a lock stitch (standard machine stitch) the whole seam will not unravel if a a stitch loosens up or breaks. However, the ends can ravel and begin to come apart if the line is not locked. UNLESS.... If stitch lines cross each other at a corner with sufficient overlap to assure integrity the two stitch lines will lock each other without the reverse stitch. That's where the seam allowance issue raised by me above comes into the picture. Usually about 1/4" of overlap is considered sufficient to assure the locking. In the case of quilting that requires the entire seam allowance, hence the need to stitch right to the edge. In the case of a wider seam allowance you need to stitch about 1/4" past but not all the way to the edge. The fine print on this is as follows... For a stand alone stitch line then it is strongly advisable to reverse lock the ends of the line. If the end of the line is caught in the seam allowance of another stitch line then reverse locking is not _required_ but often considered to be advisable. In quilting where the pieces are held in place by the quilting pattern sewn through the batting every thing is locked up pretty tight and the reverse lock is not an issue when the seam allowance lock is added to the mix.

[Charliev]

I have the same problem if i start too close to the end of the fabric or try to backstitch too close to the end. Fabric gets stuck and just wads the thread up.

[bigsig11010]

I completely stop and flip up the direction lever to rev then stop and flip it back down. My machine is a singer 301A everything is manual and the 301A only does regular and reverse no frills or fancy stuff.

[squidbilly]

I thought based on other information that I had read or seen on youtube that at the beginning and at the end of each seam on the piece I am working on that I had to "lock" the seam or stitch by reversing directions for a few stitches at each end. (1) Based on what you have shown me Im guessing that isnt necessary?? (2) It looks like you started on scrap piece then just ran onto and down your seam then off onto another scrap piece? Did you reverse stitch at all on your working piece? Is that somthing just isnt necessary or am I just doing it wrong or maybe I have my terminology confused? The information I was working with said that each seam had to be "locked" at each end of the seam on the work piece so that it wouldnt just unravel and all pull out if the seam got pulled or something like that.

The issue I am having occurs whenever I do the reverse stitch thing and it doesnt matter where I put the take up lever before I try to remove the work because the knot from the extra bobbin loop is already knotted up under there. If it isnt necessary to reverse and lock the seam stitch my problem would be solved.

Mrs. Squidbilly here again.

You are very welcome bigsig. An alternative to using a reverse stitch is to use very small stitches (20 per inch) for the first 1/4 inch then switch to your normal stitch length until you are 1/4 inch from the end, and use the small stitches again. This prevents unraveling. If there is going to be pull on both sides of the fabric, then yes, you do need to have some type of lock, either by using the previously mentioned smaller stitches, or the reverse feed. Early sewing machines did not have a reverse action, so the seamstresses and tailors used the small stitches to begin and end. Another option was to begin 1/4 inch from the beginning edge with the excess fabric to your right, sewing toward the beginning edge, then turn the fabric around 180 degrees and stitch the length of their material. These methods were the same ones used when all sewing was performed by hand. The smaller stitches were easier on very wide pieces of fabrics.

Have you cleaned your machine lately? Here is a link to the Singer 301 website, and if you scroll to the bottom, there is a free, downloadable 301 manual you can save and print out. It has complete cleaning instructions, as well as throat plate replacement procedure with pictures (as that is the tricky part for 301's and Featherweights. http://singer301.com/about/default.html

Lint or dust buildup can prevent the feed dogs from moving correctly. Lack of oil can also make them not move as smoothly as they should. That is the only answer I have as to why you have a knot only when you use your reverse and at no other times without the ability to see the machine working in real life. I do recommend you use Schmetz Microtex needles for sewing your tarp and hammock fabrics. Here is a link to everything and more that you need to know about needles and choosing the needle based on the fabrics and thread. http://www.schmetzneedles.com/all-about-needles/

If you have any more questions, feel free to send Squidbilly a private message and I will answer as best I can. Good luck and happy sewing days.