Sewing Question

[Ramblinrev]

Snowball has very good suggestions, from my experience, this one works best for me (1/2" or 3/4"). If you go to the Dream Hammock youtube channel, PapaSmurf has a tutorial on making a zipper bag, you'll notice that he does the same thing.

My recommendation is to line the edge of the fabric with the back of the presser foot. That's easier for me than trying to find a specific distance. A couple stitches forward, a few reverse and back forward. Pretty soon it becomes second nature.

[jadekayak]

There could be several reasons why it happens and solutions.
It is very thin materials and it happens to most of us from time to time.
Not even a one hole plate under the presser foot can prevent it.
A dull needle can cause it.
Wrong seize needle vs. the thread can cause it (needle too small).
Wrong needle type. They have to be sharp. Microtex is one of the better types. Needles gets worn!
Avoid to start at the very edge if you can.
When you start a hem you can start ½” from the edge and back out and go forward without stopping. Sometimes it helps to speed up but you need to be in control.
Changing the presser foot could perhaps help it depends on the type you are using. If there is pressure all the way around on the fabric the needle it can’t push it down.
Paper under the fabric or between the layers can help.

This is pretty good advise.

I do disagree on the use of "sharps" as they tend to cut threads.

Small(60 and 65) ballpoints do a pretty bang up job on lightweight synthetic fabrics and hand tension on the fabric can also help but people tend to get nervous that close to the presserfoot.

[Ramblinrev]

Small(60 and 65) ballpoints do a pretty bang up job on lightweight synthetic fabrics

That is exactly right which is why ball point needles on woven fabrics are a bad idea. They punch through instead of pierce through. You actually have this backwards. Ballpoints are made for knits. Sharps can split the knit fibers and weaken them. Ballpoints push the fibers aside and maintain the integrity of the strand. Woven fabrics are a whole different beastie. The sharps slide down into the holes between the threads, pushing them aside instead of punching through with brute force. I have never seen sharps cut the threads of fabric and I've been stitching for 50+ years. Now if you are confusing a sharp with a leather needle you are right on. Leather needles are used for vynal and leathers only. The have knife edges on the shaft which slice, dice and make julienne fries.

[HammockCanoe]

My recommendation is to line the edge of the fabric with the back of the presser foot. That's easier for me than trying to find a specific distance. A couple stitches forward, a few reverse and back forward. Pretty soon it becomes second nature.

The distance is not specific, it's obviously eyeballed. You're basically doing the same thing, the distance from the back of the pressure foot to the needle is roughly 1/2". It seems to be the best way to do it for most then.

[Ramblinrev]

The distance is not specific, it's obviously eyeballed. You're basically doing the same thing, the distance from the back of the pressure foot to the needle is roughly 1/2". It seems to be the best way to do it for most then.

Yeah... this is my own paranoia. When ever I give measurements I expect there is someone out there reaching for their tape measure to "get it right". So I like to give eyeball solutions when possible.

[Tweedle]

You've gotten great suggestions so far. I find it helps to use a bit of scrap before my main fabric and sew from that to the main fabric (do this if you don't want to start in and then back up towards the edge.) Another easy fix: if you have an older machine, be sure to hang on to both of your threads when you start, just for the first few stitches. It will become second nature.

Good luck!

[jadekayak]

That is exactly right which is why ball point needles on woven fabrics are a bad idea. They punch through instead of pierce through. You actually have this backwards. Ballpoints are made for knits. Sharps can split the knit fibers and weaken them. Ballpoints push the fibers aside and maintain the integrity of the strand. Woven fabrics are a whole different beastie. The sharps slide down into the holes between the threads, pushing them aside instead of punching through with brute force. I have never seen sharps cut the threads of fabric and I've been stitching for 50+ years. Now if you are confusing a sharp with a leather needle you are right on. Leather needles are used for vynal and leathers only. The have knife edges on the shaft which slice, dice and make julienne fries.

We could have a really good debate on this.

I only have 35 years stitching experience.

A bit of plain sewing now and then but mostly embroidery.

I don't do vynal and leather because the punch out(good for reinforcing pads)

I have seen cutting of threads by sharps,especially on coated synthetics.

[Ramblinrev]

We good have a really good debate on this.

I only have 35 years stitching experience.

A bit of plain sewing now and then but mostly embroidery.

I don't do vynal and leather because the punch out(good for reinforcing pads)

I have seen cutting of threads by sharps,especially on coated synthetics.

Embroidery can make a big difference. If you are doing satin stitch embroidry then you might have a valid point. Although I don't have a lot of experience in that. For the uninitiated, satin embroidry is created by very close stitches of usually very short length. That's a lot of holes to put into a small area of fabric. The repeated close piercing or a sharp might lead to nicking the fabric to the point of failure. In that instance I would entertain the idea that small ball point needles might be a better choice. For normal gear stitching I remain an advocate of the sharps.