2 x 4 Indoor Stand

**MisterP** · 02-22-2016, 18:50

I was lurking for a while, but joined up to share an indoor stand I designed and built. This is the second version, with a wider base and a better mount for the crossbeam. Not sure what I'd change for a third version, other than improving the fit and finish.

Supply wise, it requires 6 (2 x 4 x 96). I used three inch deck screws (took a 1 lb box with leftovers) and two eye screws. Made all cuts with a scroll saw, cause that's what I have.

The base and side supports make a 36 inch equilateral triangle (so each side support needed a 30 degree and 60 degree cut). Doesn't matter if the cuts are a bit off, cause you can't see where they join between the uprights.
The uprights are just under 47 and just over 49 inches (was trying to get the cross beam flush). Better to have them a bit too high on the base than too low, because too low makes the stand rock a bit.
The crossbeam is a full 96 inch piece and two 24 inch pieces with a foot of overlap each, but that can be changed for whatever length you want.
I put some scrap blocks between the uprights where the eye screws go in.

It works out hanging right off the eye screws or off webbing wrapped around the uprights/crossbar.

Here's a picture with an ENO SingleNest. Stress tested it with two people (just over 300 lbs), and I've been sleeping in mine (version one) for about two weeks or so.

Hammock V2.0.jpg

**SwingingInTheBreeze** · 02-22-2016, 21:22

Nice job!!

**PHBalanced** · 02-22-2016, 22:52

I just joined to comment on this. Thoughts on a guy using bolts on the crossbar connections closest to the middle? I thinking then I could break this down into three pieces for portability and storage options....

**jgibby** · 02-23-2016, 00:02

Nice work. Would be nice to have it able to disassemble for portability.

**MisterP** · 02-23-2016, 10:43

Thanks for the positive feedback.

Carriage bolts or similar would definitely work if you wanted to be able to take it apart. But, they'd either stick out (didn't want) or have to be countersunk (didn't want to do the work, didn't know how to do with the tools I had). Ultimately, I went with the cheapest and easiest design I could come up with (total cost was about $25, tools required are a saw and a screwdriver, though a pistol drill really helped).

I would suggest either using a harder wood or large washers if you're going to use bolts, as standard (i.e. cheap) 2 x 4's will compress easily.

**tightwad** · 02-23-2016, 22:59

I would suggest a cord to keep the ends from spreading. If something were to bump the bottom you could probably buckle it from the force of the hammock pulling down without a limiter at the bottom.

**MisterP** · 03-04-2016, 17:21

Originally Posted by tightwad

I would suggest a cord to keep the ends from spreading. If something were to bump the bottom you could probably buckle it from the force of the hammock pulling down without a limiter at the bottom.

I really don't think that one is necessary - the stand is very stable.

I will say, with it being wood, I am a little worried about how wiggling might affect the screws long term. So I added a diagonal strut on each side from the crossbeam to the upright. Looks pretty good, keeps stuff off the floor, and added a bit of rigidity parallel to the crossbeam. This is a shot of how mine looks now, with a Hammeck Breezy I just got. Note, mine has a 24 inch triangle at the bases, which seems to be plenty wide enough unless you REALLY like to swing.

Hammock Stand V1.9.jpg

**rocesride** · 03-04-2016, 20:14

Nice Job! I just may have to try this!

**Frank1960** · 03-04-2016, 20:26

How would that work with a top fence pole in place of the 2x4 going across say maybe drill a hole through 2 of the 3 2x4s and stick it in there? Great idea it doesn't rock back and forth length wise (wall side)

**MisterP** · 03-05-2016, 14:50

With the fence pole, I'd be worried about it rocking along it's length, but I'm sure it could be made to work. I don't have the tools to try it out. But, if I were going to go metal, I would probably just make the whole thing out of metal. (I've seen plans for a stand made of pipe somewhere on here; I didn't go that route because of the cost.)

A major upside to using a metal crossbeam is that it would eliminate any issue with possible warping on the crossbeam, which can cause stability issues.