Whats the secret to nice looking cinches on stuff sacks?

[ocnlogan]

I'll keep this short.

I recently completed two TQ's (climashield, I'll be posting those once I take some photos/etc), and was looking to make some stuff sacks with the scraps. Stuff sacks seem so easy... but I've failed miserably two or three times now. Given, they actually work ok, they just look awful.

The problem I'm having specifically is with the cinch portion at the top. The edge where the cord comes out has to be rolled, but with how I've been doing rolled hems so far (rolling hem presser foot), I can't start that close to the edge/end of the piece of fabric. Part of the problem may be that I am having a hard time getting my machine to propperly move the 1oz HypderD by itself, so I can't really lock the stitch in right at the end, as I have to have enough to hold onto to help pull the material through. This makes it so the portion where the cord comes out is a mess of fraying nylon, thread ends, and typically some bunching... It doesn't look great.

Is there some sort of dark secret to all of this that I'm not aware of?

Also, I did some searching, and saw some talk about stuff sacks, but nothing quite like this, so I figured I'd ask.

Oh, and is it necessary to do a felled seam on these? I was just planning on doing a normal run of stitches...

Thanks for the help

[Wanderlost]

When I'm feeling classy, I do a button hole about an inch from the edge of the fabric and then do about a 1/2" rolled hem. When I just want a quick ditty bag for something or other, I'll run a lighter over the edges real quick to seal them from fraying as much and do a rolled hem and just leave a `1/2" or so unsewn and run the cord through there.

..Also, backstitching a few stitches help lock it in.

[Brewguy]

First step I do is a hem on the top of the fabric, 1/2". Then at the ends of the hem fold a triangle in and sew that flat. About 2" or so. Then roll the hem again and sew. That will create the channel and have a nice finished end for the cinch. After that you can hem the side and bottom and turn right side out. It works really well and looks nice.

[Ramblinrev]

A felled seam is totally optional. If you chose to do just a quick and dirty stitch line just make sure your fabric won't fray out. Three ways you can do that.

Use coated fabric. PU coated fabric won't fray. But it is stiff, heavy and things won't dry out when in the bag.

Heat seal the edges with a candle flame hot knife or the like.

Leave a seam allowance of at least 3/4" so the edges can fray and it won't compromise the seam. Once the allowance frays a certain amount the threads get all snarled, tangled and won't get any worse. But you end up with a massive mess inside.

If I want a classy bag able to take a lot of weqar and tear I will french seam the edges. Quick and fairly easy it will stand up to a lot of use and fraying is not an issue because the edges are enclosed.

[Redoleary]

Sorry I can't link you directly right now but in my sig is a link to my YouTube channel, watch the video on round bottom stuff sack, disregard all the sack making bits and just check out the closure system part. I'll throw up a proper link when I get home.

[Tacblades]

This is how i make them
See 29.40 for the bit you want.
Bringing it out under the seam no holes needed, quick and easy pro finish.

https://youtu.be/vaGZAd4iaj0

[ocnlogan]

Wow, lots of responses. Many thanks everyone .

@Brewguy

Do you do a simple folded hem for that first 1/2in? Then, if I understand you correctly, you're doing it more or less like the diygearsupply stuff sack plan?

http://diygearsupply.com/wp-content/...ack-lowres.jpg

That method is most similar to what I was trying to do (I didn't use the triangles). The triangles seem like they would help, but that they might have somewhat of the same problem that I'm having right now (which is basically that I need to have enough material on the other side to hold onto to pull the fabric through). Based on my reading, that might be because I don't have enough presser foot pressure? I'll have to check when I get home if I have any adjustment on that.

@31Ramblinrev

I didn't know that about PU coated fabric. I can see that being useful for stuff sacks . And I'll keep in mind melting the edges. I do that with my nylon rope, so I'm not sure why I didn't think about it for the fabric.

And both videos posted have roughly similar methods of approaching the problem. You both don't really broach the issue of how to do the edge there, as you just sew the whole seam. Then you both have different methods for allowing the cord to pass through. I may give both of those a shot tonight. I just hope I have enough scrap left to make anything useful .

Thanks again for the help everyone. Its given me new things to try, and I'll see where I end up after that .

[xxl_hanger]

I wrote it already: Stuff Sacks an easy tutorial

[ocnlogan]

I wrote it already: Stuff Sacks an easy tutorial

That was one of the threads that I found when I searched initially. This is where I learned that others were perhaps doing flat felled seams, and that square bottomed stuff sacks were a "thing" (I'd only seen the round bottom ones previously). And step 1 in your thread was what I was having a problem with. That first portion (either cut at an angle, or just left straight) just was not working for me, which was why I started this thread.

But between the responses, and videos in here, I think I have a better idea how to tackle this problem when I get home from work.

Thanks again for the help .

[xxl_hanger]

Round bottoms are not easy. Forget it. You will become crazy. Square bottoms are much easier, have a better stability and are also nice.

First step is shown by Hoot. I make it a bit different. I cut two right triangles away first. Both sides of these right triangles are 2cm (~3/4"). The other diagonal side is not of any interest but about sqrt(2²+2²) = 2.83cm long. Then I make two diagonal roll hems (folded to the later inside). After that I sew the channel like a roll hem. Then I sew both sides together with a seam allowance of (~5/8") - inside out. Then I fold this seam allowance in half, fold it over and make a second stitch line close at the edge of the folded edge. This is a flat felt seam, but still very easy. Then I make the same at the bottom. This is more difficult if the stuff sack is small. I hand stitch the second sewing lines at the corners, if necessary. And then I fold the definition tabs (all hand stitched corners go inside), feed in the grosgrain handle on the other side. Make two straight stitch lines and are almost ready. I don't cut the definition tabs away. I sew them down for better stability of the stuff sack bottom and as reinforcement of the grosgrain handle.

There is no secret at all. It is very easy and in total solid work. That's all I need.