I'm doing an experiment with fabric glue. Tape is too heavy and requires too much. I will let you know if it works.
I'm doing an experiment with fabric glue. Tape is too heavy and requires too much. I will let you know if it works.
Looking at the tape, especially the iron-activated type, it seemed pretty lightweight and the shipping specs indicated only .32 oz for 20 ft. With 11 rows of 70" needing attachment, that would come out to 770" so about 3.25 rolls of tape; just about an ounce assuming the shipping weight is accurate.Originally Posted by leiavoia
That said, I'll defer to your (far) greater experience on this. It would seem like quite a bit of tape would be needed, and I'm not sure ironing all those lengths would be any easier than sewing it.
I made a new top quilt with a costco throw last night. I came up with a design that I haven't seen anyone do, so I thought I'd post it here.
Were I making a top quilt from scratch, I'd make it longer and narrower than the down throw, so I wanted a design that would get me closer to those dimensions without over complicating the build. To start, I pulled out all the short seams so I had continuous long baffles of down. Then, I folded the bottom corner about 12" towards its opposite corner sewed the sides up to that corner and then the two sides together. Here is a picture of it inside out, to make the seams easier to see:
IMG_20180718_110624.jpg
As you can see, it ends up rather a cone shape. I imagine that rather than sewing, one could use snaps or something else, but I'm a crappy tailor and this was easy enough for me to do. If I do another, I might make the foot box even smaller. 12" of height for the foot box makes for almost twice that in width. I hate having my feet too constrained, and this is more than enough for me.
Here are some criteria for why one might want to use this design or not:
Pros:
- A bit more length than a symmetrical design with a similar foot box. ~76"
- 12" x 24" foot box
- Simple construction: 3 seams, no cutting
- good calf coverage: ~32" from bottom of foot box
Cons:
- Shoulder coverage isn't great.
- Asymmetry might not be appealing to some.
I could have chased the down towards the ends of the baffles and trimmed the sides before sewing them together. Making the loft a bit better in those baffles and getting rid of some of the excess width, but I wanted to keep the build as simple and fast as possible. It took me about an hour of seam ripping, 15 minutes of sewing, and 45 minutes of fumbling around until I got the proportions where I wanted them.
I haven't built a symmetrical top quilt with a costco down throw to compare it to, but playing around with different designs, this seemed to get me closer to the dimensions that I really want in a top quilt.
If someone else has posted this design already and I missed it, apologies in advance.
Hope this is helpful.
cheers,
Nice work, Troy. I played with a similar asymmetric design last year when I was trying to come up with a double layered “Gemini Topquilt” concept. As you figured out, you get more length on the diagonal. Ultimately I never came up with anything I felt was good enough to go to press with. The dimensions on the Costco blanket are just a bit too weird for that application.
I also considered having the head section roll down with a snap so that you don’t have that pointy bit poking you in the face.
I would love to see you step this up to a two-blanket design.
https://imgur.com/gallery/kOXYm
AsrACiU.jpg
This is how I did mine. Works great, although there is obviously some cutting involved. I'm 6'2" and I can pull it over my head.Cheers,
The Goat
Cheers,
The Goat
Clever. I'm only 6'1", but mine comes over my head too.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
- Dutch Argon 11' hammock
- Whoopie Slings
- symmetrical PLUQ
Thanks for the feedback.
The pointy bit ends up more on my shoulder, as I lay, unless I pull it up over my head.
I contemplated a two blanket/3 season quilt, but the weight of all that extra ripstop put me off the idea. Sewing a quilt from scratch starts being not much more work with a lighter result.
I liked that my design was cheap, easy, fast and light. if I'm going to invest more time or money, I'd rather have real baffles or a Karo step.
Having said that, it occurs to me that since the shape of this quilt is rather conical, a 2 blanket solution could be to just make two of these and put one inside the other!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
- Dutch Argon 11' hammock
- Whoopie Slings
- symmetrical PLUQ
Me too. Mine is a slight variation of this.
I just finished a top quilt and underquilt using a pair of the basic CDTs.
For the Top Quilt, I followed the basic idea here:
https://www.exploreserac.com/make-un...quilt-6-steps/
For the underquilt, I combined the ideas from the page above with the suspension concept from the DIY 3/4 underquilt at Ripstopbytheroll.
Not perfect. I made plenty of mistakes, but overall, they are a major improvement from the original $22 Costco throws (yes, I didn't get them during a price reduction). The top quilt didn't need anything except thread and patience in removing the cross stitching. The underquilt used a few dollars worth of grosgrain, 1/8" shockcord, a couple microbiners, lineocks/cord locks.
I'm getting between 1.5' and 2" loft from the underquilt (which is overstuffed due to taking out 25" of length). A solid 1" of loft on the top quilt with a bit more in the footbox area. I'm hoping these will keep me comfortable down to 50F or slightly lower. I am typically a hot sleeper and the hammock has a bug net and I can add my winter top cover if things start to get too cold.
Going out on a backpacking trip with the scouts this weekend so I will get to test it out soon. I may bring my Kelty 20F down bag and use it if I find the top quilt isn't enough after the 1st night (which will be at a basecamp near our cars.)
IMG_20181010_213756.jpgIMG_20181010_213351.jpgIMG_20181010_182504.jpgIMG_20181010_213914.jpgIMG_20181010_213905.jpg
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks