TurtleDog Pile of Refuse

**BananaHammock** · 01-23-2016, 22:45

So I made a Turtledog stand and it worked great! I used 2X2s at 6' with a four inch hinge and a 10' long 3/4" diameter conduit pipe. Then I cut the pipe in half and used a connection joint. That's when I heard a noise felt a knock on the head and landed on my butt. The rough edge of the pipe cut 11 holes in the hammock as it fell. Surprisingly, the hammock still holds me! Gotta love those tablecloths!! How can I fix this problem? I need a better connection piece.
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**Acer** · 01-23-2016, 23:04

Your connection piece was aluminum and needs to be heavier as in steel and i would even make the horizontal bar a larger dia. giving it more strength as when you hang and all your weight is transfered to the bar, your weight causes it to flex. Most bars designed for the turtle dog stand are 16 or so ft. long and about 1.5" dia or even alittle larger dia.

**zukiguy** · 01-23-2016, 23:14

If you notice most every description of a turtledog setup uses a section of chain link top rail (126" x 1-3/8"). These are swaged on one end so when you cut them in half they have the "connector" built in. 3/4" conduit and little screw connectors aren't going to cut it by a long shot.

**tightwad** · 01-23-2016, 23:36

I used 1" Rigid Conduit that is threaded. I cut one in half and threaded it to the end of a full length. This provides enough support and doesn't bend like the regular conduit does. I found the fence post railing was bigger than I needed (and more expensive...)

**BananaHammock** · 01-23-2016, 23:42

Well the conduit did hold me before I cut it. I'll try a steel connector. I bought the bar on a whim at a little hardware store that didn't have the top rail. I'm not even sure the top rail would fit in my vehicle. I'm not very learned in the handy-mans world so I just did the best I could with my lack of skills. Would a hack saw be able to cut a top rail?

I don't think most use 16 foot bars, I agree that most use a 10.5' top rail but after cutting it in half and inserting the tapered end it becomes 10' so I gave the conduit a try. I didn't see any major flexing unless I bounced in it. I still may go out and buy the top rail, but the connector may come first because I think the conduit will work for me. I'll message you from the hospital and let you know how it went

**tightwad** · 01-23-2016, 23:58

I found that the closer my hammock is to the connection point of the top rail the less flex I get...of course this makes some sense but I hadn't thought about it until one time I went wider and the conduit (the $5 stuff) bent into a U where previously it had held.

**BananaHammock** · 01-24-2016, 00:03

Originally Posted by tightwad

I found that the closer my hammock is to the connection point of the top rail the less flex I get...of course this makes some sense but I hadn't thought about it until one time I went wider and the conduit (the $5 stuff) bent into a U where previously it had held.

Ah yes, I had my hammock suspension right behind the point where the top rail was connected to the tripod. So that probably puts some pressure on the tripod rather than the conduit.

**Morticiaskeeper** · 01-24-2016, 03:15

My 1" conduit with threaded joint held me, but didn't look very nice, so I bought a foot long 3/4" piece of aluminum. It's held in one side by a pop rivet and also acts as a guide for the threaded joint.

**oldpappy** · 01-24-2016, 10:26

As long as you are out, check out the Top rail at Home Depot (about $12) - prior to checking out, I took it to their pipe dept to have it cut in half (5'3") for free.

**BananaHammock** · 01-24-2016, 11:06

I asked if they would cut it and they said no but I will go to the pipe dept and ask. That seems like a good idea. I see that they are $7.89. If they can cut it, that would be great otherwise I may be using a hacksaw in the parking lot. I did enjoy the lightweight conduit and may consider having both options but it's not like it's a backpacking item.