Here is a video on my UL, modular, quick connect, dynaglide suspension system:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eoq4RUeoG2c
Sorry for the poor production quality and poor delivery, this is my first video and I hate public speaking.
Here is a video on my UL, modular, quick connect, dynaglide suspension system:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eoq4RUeoG2c
Sorry for the poor production quality and poor delivery, this is my first video and I hate public speaking.
Nice suspension system.
However, lock stitching buries is best not done with a sewing machine as you have done to the continuous loops. It only takes a few "stitches" and they should be snug but not tight to allow the bury to fully move and constrict. Lock stitching is only used to insure the bury can't back out under no load conditions.
Here is the proper method to lock stitch...http://www.samsonrope.com/Documents/...PT2012_WEB.pdf
thanks for some great ideas
I'm glad to see another gram weenie pushing the limits!
I like it. I need to mess around with my ultralight suspension a bit more.
Nice set up! I like that it is a detachable set up. I have dynaglide whoopies (directly attached to hammock) and 6ft kevlar tree straps for my UL suspension.
I may have to figure out a way to include a disconnect into the system using your designs.
Cool rigging aero-hiker. Did you have infinity loops to make it all modular and quick disconnect? Could you somehow just connect the UCR to tree hugger? Bravo aero-hiker!
Yes, the point of the infinity loop between the UCR and the tree-hugger is three-fold:
1. Allow the hammock to connect directly to the hugger for short hangs (hammock-UCR connect is male-female, UCR-hugger connect is also male-female, so you can just do hammock-hugger male-female connection)
2. Allow the UCR to be swapped out for some other suspension system
3. Easily separate the huggers from the rest of the system if they get dirty or covered in sap
In my first iteration I just had an eye splice to connect the UCR to the huggers.
Virtually all the components can be used in a more "normal" fashion. Infinity loops and eye-splice with nooses (without any beads/washers) can just have the noose pulled out of them to form a normal continuous loop or fixed eye splice. You can put it back in later with a loop turning tool, or a wire fish tool. (This is actually how I make them: I make an eye splice using McDonald Brummel technique with an additional pulling the rope through itself near the midpoint of the eye-loop. Once the eye-loop is spliced, I then thread the loop turning tool through the inverted pass, grab the eye splice and pull it back through, un-inverting the pass through and forming the noose.) Infinity loops, even those with beads/washers can be scooched along to widen the noose, and the wide noose can then just act like a continuous loop. The button knot with continuous loop can also act a plain old continuous loop, and the spliced-in button knot can act as an eye splice. (Although the knot/splice efficiency will degrade for these last two cases, and the loop/eye will be fairly small.) Also, wherever there is a button knot, you can larks-head another eye/loop around the standing ends exiting the button knot. Finally an infinity loop and a button knot loop can be tied together with a square-knot (maybe this is the wrong terminology when both components are eye-loops or continuos loops) to form a soft shackle.
If there is sufficient interest I can try to make a video of how I make the components, assuming I can figure out how to film it.
Quick change to shorter hang--modular, no knots no hardware and ultralight; as SSG Rock says "You're gonna die". Aero-hiker you done it up!!
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