Having very recently retired, I determined that a backpacking trip was fitting initiation the new lifestyle. So I joined hiker-buddy David (aka, "The Weatherman") on an 8-day, 123-mile northbound hike on the Appalachian Trail in Virginia, ending at the James River Footbridge on October 27th. All-in-all, a successful trip, very easily hammocked, and summarized below:
Day 1 - We placed bets on the number of southbound thru-hikers we'd encounter during the 8 days. We saw ~16 the first day, exceeding both our estimates for the entire trip. The trail was rocky and covered by about 4 inches of dead leaves. We were mostly at higher (>3500') elevations and the colors were unspectacular, but they would get much better later in the hike. Met 11-year old thru-hiker Baby Blue, with her Dad and friend, while eating lunch at a shelter. Camped at Sarver's Hollow Shelter, .4 miles off-trail. SCREW-UP #1 I hadn't hung my cuben fiber bear bag in some time and set it up with the PCT method, running it up part of the way empty. Mistake #1 - there's no counterweight to drop the bag. So I tried to fish the bag back down with a stick. Mistake #2 - the stick tangled in the down-line, pulling the bag all the way up to the branch while tangling the cord in the carabiner. I had to cut the line, leaving the bag embarrassingly displayed up at the branch. So much for LNT (sheepish grin).
Day 2 - A couple good views and a visit to the Audie Murphy Monument. Arrived at Pickle Branch Shelter and met southbound section hikers Big Paw and Wandering Weasel. Although WW is from Michigan, we established that his sister lives less than a mile from my house in Houston. He said that if he could get my cuben bear bag out of the tree the next day, he'd return it to me the next time he visits his sister.
Day 3 - Great views include Dragons Tooth. Beginning of some upper GI issues for me that lasted the rest of the trip. Supposed to camp at Pig Farm, but I'm totally gassed at the base of the hill to McAfee Knob. David goes on to intended campsite and I stay near Catawba Mountain Shelter. ALMOST SCREW-UP #2 - While setting up between two trees on long, steep slope, my backpack tips over allowing cylindrical drybag with quilts to begin rolling down hill. I tear downhill after it, not wanting to retrieve it from several hundred feet below. Cook-kit, also cylindrical, simultaneously rolls out of bag and starts down hill and luckily stops against a log. Bonus hill climb while gassed, narrowly averted.
Day 4 - best views of the trip, including McAfee Knob and Tinker Cliffs, but feeling quite sick to the stomach. Destination is a motel in Daleville, Va. for showers, laundry and resupply. I go 18 miles on one Kind bar and 6 chocolate-covered espresso beans (to stop caffeine headache). Cannot eat (let alone drink) much of anything in Daleville and thoughts of cancelling the second part of the trip (for me) cross my mind.
Day 5 - 3 yogurts and 1/2 waffle for breakfast at the motel revives the spirits, but nausea returns later in the morning. I hiccup for over an hour straight while making miles. Thankfully, it's a relatively short day and we arrive at Wilson Creek Shelter where there are two friendly locals and Dirty Rotten Liar, a flip-flopper who hikes with the creepy mask from the movie "Scream" attached to his backpack (it's only a week from Halloween when he could actually use it).
Day 6 - With destination Cove Mountain Shelter having no water source, we decide that instead of schlepping water up the hill, we'd push on to VA 614 crossing, where there's an RV campground, and camp there. Calls for the complimentary shuttle were unanswered and we hiked in to find the camp store closed for the season. We did get the owners to open up briefly for us, though, so we could get a cold drink and Alka-Seltzer, and we did shower. So the 1.2 miles (bonus miles) each way was worth it.
Day 7 - Long, continuous climb most of the day, over Apple Orchard Mountain with other-worldly golf ball shaped FAA tower, and through the Guillotine rock formation. Weather is rapidly deteriorating, as we're in the remnants of Hurricane Patricia. Camp at Thunder Hill Shelter and meet flip-flopper Old School, who studied micro-paleontology at Rice University in Houston and knew very well Valhalla, the graduate student pub where I've tipped many a Shiner Bock. He's "old school" because of his external frame pack, white gas stove, and a variety of "antique" hiking gear.
Day 8 - Rained most of the night, and there was rain/drizzle all day, so it was a day of cold, wet feet. Mostly downhill to the James River footbridge (or Foot Bridge, named for Bill Foot). Picked up another David at the trailhead (his next exploit will be to traverse the continent E-W by foot). On to Charlottsville and motel stay. My stomach finally developed an appetite that evening, but I'd lost about 15 lbs to that point.
Final headcount of southbounders (both thru and flip-flop) - probably around 30, way more then either of us predicted.
Next up, Big Bend Outer Mountain Loop (sadly, spending nights on the ground), followed by the big Fairfield Texas Group Hang next weekend. So far, to paraphrase the immortal Chico Esquela, retirement been berry, berry good to me.
Pictures:
The Weatherman retrieves water
Fall color on the AT
McAfee Knob
Tinker Cliffs
Pasture hiking
James River Foot Bridge
The Weatherman retrieves water.jpgFall color on the AT.jpgMcAfee Knob.jpgTinker Cliffs.jpgPasture hiking.jpgJames River Foot Bridge.jpg
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