Gunna start to sew what machine???

**hammocks** · 11-01-2015, 17:34

So I'm going to take the plunge and start to sew.

I want a machine that is capable of delivering the goods with respect to making hammocks, jackets, backpacks etc.

Should I get one of the home machines or just plunge for an industrial JUKI.

I really dont have a clue.

I'm hoping to make hammocks and bikepacking gear in the future and i'm stuped which machine to get.

I'll buy new or used not fussed.

Based in the UK.

I have looked at industrial Jukis and they seem nice. Is this a good route to go or is it overkill.

Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks.

**BrianWillan** · 11-01-2015, 18:27

The industrial sewing machines are overkill for the lightweight fabrics that are used in modern outdoor gear. I would look for an older sewing machine that has all metal construction. At minimum you just need one with straight stitching. A zig zag stick is nice to have, but not essential. Starting at an place that sells and services sewing machines would get you started.

Cheers

Brian

**zombieresponder** · 11-01-2015, 19:14

What fabric weights are you intending to sew? To me "backpack" means at least 500d cordura nylon....mine(not made by me) is a 1000d beast. To others it means ultralight fabrics that won't hold more than the ~ten pounds my pack weighs empty.

**Bubba** · 11-01-2015, 21:28

A home machine will do the job for you. Check out thrift stores for an older all metal machine. There's not usually much if an investment and it will be more robust and long lasting. Ask around your family and friends as well. There's a good chance that there's a machine just collecting dust that you could use to get started.

Whatever you find, try and find it's manual online if it doesn't come with one. They are helpful for learning how to thread the machine as well as how to trouble shoot and maintain it.

**kayak4water** · 11-02-2015, 02:57

Originally Posted by zombieresponder

What fabric weights are you intending to sew? To me "backpack" means at least 500d cordura nylon....mine(not made by me) is a 1000d beast. To others it means ultralight fabrics that won't hold more than the ~ten pounds my pack weighs empty.

I agree with this view--even lighter cloth than Cordura 500d, when put together with one or two layers of webbing, will over tax a machine meant for dress shirts and baby clothes.

I suggest taking the thickest fabric and webbing that you might use to the sewing machine shop, put them together in the thickness that you might possibly use and run a few feet of the thread you plan to use through them. I have a Viking Emerald 116 that doesn't like to push through very many layers at any speed, often begging for a hand assist, despite a new needle and the right thread for the needle.

The Bernina I've used from 25 years ago had the power I wanted to punch through layers at speed without birdsnesting under the stitching. I'd even go for a straight stitch machine if it had the power I like. Many of today's home machines don't have the spirit of those from decades ago.

If I was new at this, I'd want someone to demonstrate a machine that could handle the materials I plan to use. Also, beware the salesperson who runs four layers of denim through a machine without a hiccough--denim is not nylon.

P.S. Bikepacking gear also likely means 500 denier Cordura or heavier. You want a machine with power.
PPS. you can TRY a domestic machine, and resell it or return it (if the merchant has a liberal return policy) if you find it inadequate. Consider the small loss, if any, as your tuition fee for learning what will work for you.

**hammocks** · 11-02-2015, 06:52

Can I get away with a straight stitch only machine like a JUKI? i.e will there be techniques I can use to sew a variety of things. I'll be working with extremely lightweight materials. I think stuff like x-pack vx21 and similar.

Cuben, ripstop nylon and If i venture into packs then webbing but It wont be heavy duty stuff. Along the lines of the zpacks idealogy.

**Ramblinrev** · 11-02-2015, 08:23

IMO unless you are planning to sew commercially and all day all week all year an industrial is overkill. I agree that a new big box machine won't cut it. But a vintage machine with all metal gearing will fill the bill with no problem. Plus they are cheaper. Sharp needles and good stitching technique go a long way to making a vintage machine as good as an industrial for casual to moderate use. Some of those machines are still being used in third world countries as industrials.

A straight stitch only machine is fine for gear making. Reverse is nice but there are work arounds. Zig zag is entirely optional for most gear making. You said you wanted to do jackets and possibly other garments. Here's where you may have to make some choices. If you are doing gear type garments the above holds. However, if you will want to work with modern technical and stretch fabrics you will want stitches that a straight stitch only industrial will not provide. You might be able to get away with adding a serger to your arsenal for those instances.

I'm not saying _don't_ buy a straight stitch Juki. But unless you are sure you will be using it to its full potential I think you will be happy with a vintage machine for much less cost.

**Morticiaskeeper** · 11-02-2015, 10:45

Parachutes and balloons use straight stitch, so if it's ok for them, it's ok for most other applications.

Zig zag has its place, for appliqué, or structural reasons on fighting kites, but you really only need straight.

In the UK, a Singer 99 or 201 would be a good choice. The 99 is a good workhorse, especially if treadle powered. The 201 is probably the smoothest machine I've ever used. My engineer has never had to adjust the timing on a 201 in 40 years.

A Wimsew industrial can be had for about £250, but it's pretty much overkill for our sort of fabrics.

If you can find a Pfaff 260, it's a good compromise between the home size machine and industrial engineering.