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  1. #691
    Senior Member BillyBob58's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cougarmeat View Post
    When using that fence railing, what ends need to be tapered? For example, each 10 ft pole - by the way, their price has gone from about $10/pole to about $18 - has one tapered end. If you need a tapered end at the bottom of a leg so a rubber foot will fit, that’s 4 poles and if you need a tapered end to go in the top pole middle joint, that’s two more poles.

    I’d like to use all the material and also give it Ridge Runner potential which means about a 15 ft spread - or two 7.5 ft pieces for the top, leaving two 3 ft sections behind.
    If a tapered end is needed in the legs - either at the bottom for foot or at the top to go into the bracket, that’s four more “orphaned” pieces.

    Is that just the cost of doing business - six poles and a lot of left over 3 - 4 sections? Has anyone tried to tape a 2 x 2 wooden piece to fit in the bracket so you’d have four wooden legs and metal fence rail top bar?
    EDIT: the only ends that need to be tapered are those which are meant to slip into another segment, because they have been cut down to make the size more manageable for transport, and/or to add an extension to get a longer than 10 ft top rail.
    For mine,
    1: 1 10 ft top rail cut in 2 segments ( if needed for easy transport). Turn 1 of the 2 segments around so that the tapered end slides into the other segment. I now have 2 segs joined(with a short joiner to beef up the joint) for a 10 ft length, each with an open, NOT tapered end.
    2: a 2nd 10 ft pole cut to the desired size, with tapered end into one of the open ends. I now have say 3 5 ft sections all joined at the taper(or, if not concerned with transport, a 10 foot joined to a 5 ft at the taper), with joints boosted with the booster thingies. So that is. tn ft poles, cut down, for the top rail.
    3: My stand legs are scrap I had from a trampoline stand. But if I didn't have that, I would probably need enough pole for 6 ft per leg, but can't remember for sure. Anyone know? I might have more than 6 ft per leg. 5 ft per leg would be 2 more 10 ft poles. But I don't think 5 ft per leg would be enough. So you will have to come up with enough poles to get the needed height. Probably the easiest is 4 more 10 ft poles for the legs, later cutting them down to whatever you decide is the correct height. So that will be 6 10 ft poles, as you said.

    Potentially good idea about the wooden legs, if you could make them fit into the brackets. But would the wood be any cheaper than the fence posts? Lumber prices have collapsed- in the futures markets at least- back to pre pandemic levels. But hard to say when that will show up in the big box stores.

    No need for tapers on the foot end unless you can't find rubber feet big enough for the non tapered ends. Outside in the yard,, no need for rubber feet, though you might want to rig something to keep the open ends from sinking in the ground and filling up with dirt.
    Last edited by BillyBob58; 07-01-2021 at 21:11.

  2. #692
    Senior Member goalie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cougarmeat View Post
    When using that fence railing, what ends need to be tapered? For example, each 10 ft pole - by the way, their price has gone from about $10/pole to about $18 - has one tapered end. If you need a tapered end at the bottom of a leg so a rubber foot will fit, that’s 4 poles and if you need a tapered end to go in the top pole middle joint, that’s two more poles.

    I’d like to use all the material and also give it Ridge Runner potential which means about a 15 ft spread - or two 7.5 ft pieces for the top, leaving two 3 ft sections behind.
    If a tapered end is needed in the legs - either at the bottom for foot or at the top to go into the bracket, that’s four more “orphaned” pieces.

    Is that just the cost of doing business - six poles and a lot of left over 3 - 4 sections? Has anyone tried to tape a 2 x 2 wooden piece to fit in the bracket so you’d have four wooden legs and metal fence rail top bar?
    The rubber feet I used from Home Depot fit the non-tapered, full sized pole.

    I did do 6 poles, but got most from a friend.

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...223/203661034?

    I wanted less pieces, and tubing length isn't an issue with my trailer, but you could easily make something similar sized with all 3' and 4' pieces.
    "It turns out that what you have is less important than what you do with it"

  3. #693
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    Great thread and I want to build a stand like this. The open L fittings aren’t readily available in my country so was looking at this fitting as a replacement.
    EEDB0C24-8E1C-47EA-A1EF-008FA854337A.jpg.
    173F6209-3C0F-426D-BAA2-162DBE387AA6.jpg
    30BCC3E3-4B02-45D0-81AF-AAE25283592C.jpg
    CF595E1B-18AA-4B14-8932-BA4AD4A10BD2.jpg
    Clamps down on the tube using hex nuts and Allen key. Would work the same way as the open L fitting, but there would only be about an inch of tube going into the fitting, like the threaded fittings used for the Ultimate Hang pipe stand. Will this be too much stress in an A-frame configuration? I’m thinking I could use the same fittings and same 6 pipes to configure a pipe stand/spurtle stand as well as a bipod stand if feasible.
    I’m also guessing you could easily turn your bipod stand into a spurtle/pipe stand configuration using the same parts, has anyone done this, would be good to have the versatility to change it around for different situations

  4. #694
    Senior Member BillyBob58's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by odonovan View Post
    Great thread and I want to build a stand like this. The open L fittings aren’t readily available in my country so was looking at this fitting as a replacement.
    EEDB0C24-8E1C-47EA-A1EF-008FA854337A.jpg.
    173F6209-3C0F-426D-BAA2-162DBE387AA6.jpg
    30BCC3E3-4B02-45D0-81AF-AAE25283592C.jpg
    CF595E1B-18AA-4B14-8932-BA4AD4A10BD2.jpg
    Clamps down on the tube using hex nuts and Allen key. Would work the same way as the open L fitting, but there would only be about an inch of tube going into the fitting, like the threaded fittings used for the Ultimate Hang pipe stand. Will this be too much stress in an A-frame configuration? I’m thinking I could use the same fittings and same 6 pipes to configure a pipe stand/spurtle stand as well as a bipod stand if feasible.
    I’m also guessing you could easily turn your bipod stand into a spurtle/pipe stand configuration using the same parts, has anyone done this, would be good to have the versatility to change it around for different situations
    I don't know whether just having an inch of pipe inside that fitting would be too much strain on the pipe or not. I assume not on the fitting, since it is designed that way, but don't know about the pipe that will be inserted into the fitting. But, you could always use either stronger pipe, at least for that section(if designed to have segments for easy transport) going into the fitting. Or you could rig up a booster, like a 6-12" long smaller piece of pipe or wood dowel, to go inside the pipe and greatly strengthen it. If needed.

    However, I will caution you about clamping down with much torque on the hex nuts. I have done this and caused dents in my fence post, which proved to be weak points where it later bent. This should not be an issue as long as the dents are always inside the fittings. But if you ever change the stand's configuration, maybe to make it shorter or longer and those dents end up outside the fittings, it is a potential weak spot. For me, I have found the best way is to just use barely enough torque to keep it standing long enough for me to secure the legs with a rope or strap which keeps them from spreading apart. I always use this rope anyway, but used to get a little over enthused with also tightening the bolts. Now I just depend on the ropes, and once they are secured I even go back and loosen the bolts so they are barely contacting the top rail. YMMV.

  5. #695
    LowTech's Avatar
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    We have used such fittings to create shade structures that we also hang several hammocks from. The main difference is that those fittings fit "pipe" and not "tube". Most of these "pipe stands" use tube, like fence rail. Pipe is not only sized different, it's also way thicker and stronger (and heavy). If anyone can dent a "pipe" w/ that set screw I would be very impressed.

  6. #696
    Senior Member goalie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LowTech View Post
    We have used such fittings to create shade structures that we also hang several hammocks from. The main difference is that those fittings fit "pipe" and not "tube". Most of these "pipe stands" use tube, like fence rail. Pipe is not only sized different, it's also way thicker and stronger (and heavy). If anyone can dent a "pipe" w/ that set screw I would be very impressed.
    If left outside, pipe will also rust/corrode and be VERY difficult to disassemble.
    "It turns out that what you have is less important than what you do with it"

  7. #697
    LowTech's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by goalie View Post
    If left outside, pipe will also rust/corrode and be VERY difficult to disassemble.
    Can be. We used galvanized pipe and have been using it multiple years (not constant) in a highly alkaline environment and have had no issues. They still come apart easily. Though I would say that part of that is because it's not threaded together like you would for plumbing and the fittings have a bit of clearance around the pipe. As far as rust and corrosion, even the fence posts and rails that are being used will rust as they are only galvy steel tube, and as w/ any metal left outside painting is a good option. Might not be the best for something that gets put up and taken down often, but then it really shouldn't be needed.

  8. #698
    Senior Member BillyBob58's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LowTech View Post
    We have used such fittings to create shade structures that we also hang several hammocks from. The main difference is that those fittings fit "pipe" and not "tube". Most of these "pipe stands" use tube, like fence rail. Pipe is not only sized different, it's also way thicker and stronger (and heavy). If anyone can dent a "pipe" w/ that set screw I would be very impressed.
    Me too. My only experience is the "tubes", i.e. fence post top rail. Those I have dented.

    Quote Originally Posted by goalie View Post
    If left outside, pipe will also rust/corrode and be VERY difficult to disassemble.
    Quote Originally Posted by LowTech View Post
    Can be. We used galvanized pipe and have been using it multiple years (not constant) in a highly alkaline environment and have had no issues. They still come apart easily. Though I would say that part of that is because it's not threaded together like you would for plumbing and the fittings have a bit of clearance around the pipe. As far as rust and corrosion, even the fence posts and rails that are being used will rust as they are only galvy steel tube, and as w/ any metal left outside painting is a good option. Might not be the best for something that gets put up and taken down often, but then it really shouldn't be needed.
    My L brackets, and to a lessor degree my fence posts, have rusted. Not real bad, but enough for concern. I then treated them with some of that rust dissolve/prevent stuff from HD or Lowe's. Seems to work pretty good.

  9. #699
    Senior Member P-Dub's Avatar
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    The fittings take the non-tapered end of the rail, so you do not need a taper there. You definitely don't need to get six full length poles unless you're really set on having those tapered sections everywhere. No need to have a taper at the ground. You can cut off the tapered ends to make the legs your chosen height, and connect those short pieces along with another rail to make up the top rail. That would be five poles (rails).

    If you want to use any non-tapered leftover sections, there are sleeves that can link them (on the same website where the fittings came from). These can also be used to make a collapsible/portable version by cutting the legs into desired lengths for travel.

    [edit: oops, I wrote this before reading everyone's answers to Cougarmeat!]

  10. #700
    Quote Originally Posted by circusfreak View Post
    I couldn't believe how quick this went together and how well it worked out. It took all of about 15-20 minutes to build, with a hacksaw and a drill. If I had a sawzall with a metal blade, I think it could be done in 5-10 minutes.
    Parts:
    "1 3/8 Closed T Horizontal Pipe slides through $5.50" from tarps.com http://tarps.com/fittings2.htm
    (4) 1 3/8 chain link top rail sections
    (2) fence rail end http://www.lowes.com/pd_272014-215-0...1&Ntt=rail+end
    (2) heavy duty S hooks
    (4) medium S hooks
    1 pack of rubber chair bumpers 1 pack of cheap swingset chain
    1 pack bamboo frame

    To build the stand:
    - Cut one half of the T off of each of the fittings, opposite the thumbscrew.
    - Using 2 of the rails, cut 4 equal 5' legs.
    - Cut 2 6' sections from the other rails, leaving the tapered end on one of them
    - Slide the legs into the bottom of the T fittings, tighten screws. Assemble 12' top bamboo frame. Slide legs/fittings onto the top rail. Put end caps with S hooks on the end of the rail. Hang hammock.
    - Drill holes in legs, attach S hooks and some chain. Chain makes it easy to change width of leg splay which gives stand adjustability.

    Under my (very significant) bamboo frame, the stand has a slight end to end wobble when moving around, and no side to side. Bamboo frame is very stable and nothing appears to flex, even when the legs are splayed very widely. And it's nice that you can just lift up and it folds flat to be stoted against the wall, or you can take it totally apart with no tools or effort.

    I have spend 4 nights in it so far and it works great!

    Attachment 115203
    Attachment 115204
    Attachment 115205
    Attachment 115206
    It looks awesome... I love it...

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