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  1. #191
    New Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Centennial, CO
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    6
    I've got everything but the top rails cut. Considering going 4/6ft and 6/4ft. That would get me 12ft top rail with one configuration (6+6) then 14 ft top rail with another (6 + 4 + 4), no connector sleeves needed. Hopefully this gets me both indoor and outdoor configurations. I guess I'll also have a 10ft option as well to test for indoor use with a 9'10", although I'll lose some length on that top rail if I hang off that other leg.... maybe for indoor I can use those hook caps to get the full 10ft? Has anyone had those break yet?

    Oh another question: how long are you all cutting your leg chains? I got 15ft from lowes, just wondering if cutting into 4 lengths is good enough. I have 5ft legs.

  2. #192
    Senior Member Ratdog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Swamp in the woods
    Hammock
    XLC, DIY, GT Dbl for day hiking
    Tarp
    WL OMW
    Insulation
    AHE KAQ JUQ, HG0B
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    Web with Triangles
    Posts
    4,504
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    2
    I'm using amsteel whoopies for the spread limiters so they are adjustable. Thinking about going with equilateral triangle for stability. But need the adjustment to account for varying Terrain.

    Finished installing the snaps today and cleaning up the cut ends and drilled holes using files and a brush wheel. Everything fits together smoothly and is snug.

    Now to determine final Ridgepole length, pieces and maker a decision on the clevis pin implementation.

    Catching grief from my brother-in-law he doesn't think that 5 foot length legs will be of any use. I had intended the shorter legs to be used indoors or for getting the tarp lower to the ground.

    Now my plan is to set the whole thing up in his living room and be relaxing when he arrives home from work one day. Only hurdle, getting my sister to authorize the setup of an indoor hammock stand in her house on the hardwood floor.

    Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk
    Have sherpas, will travel...
    Triangles, it's all about the triangles.
    H30º ™
    HTA

    8.7167º

  3. #193
    New Member
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    Oct 2015
    Location
    Centennial, CO
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    6
    caster cups to protect the floor? http://www.lowes.com/pd_66946-255-46...ductId=1096131

  4. #194
    Senior Member zukiguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Space Coast FL
    Hammock
    Warbonnet Ridgerunner
    Tarp
    Superfly
    Insulation
    Lynx or Pads
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    Straps and Biners
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    2,397
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    8
    The rubber caps seem to work just fine but are a snug fit. A little silicone grease from the pool supplies made them a lot easier to install. With the 7' legs spread about 5' apart I can still walk under the ridge pole without ducking. The stand seems rock solid side to side but there's enough flex in the brackets that it will oscillate for a few seconds when I first climb in. The motion is kind of soothing since I'm swinging both side to side and back and forth. I'm kind of concerned though what that might do to the brackets over time.

    For now the stand is set up on the porch but in a camping environment with a tarp installed I assume that will dampen the movement quite a bit.

  5. #195
    Senior Member Ratdog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Swamp in the woods
    Hammock
    XLC, DIY, GT Dbl for day hiking
    Tarp
    WL OMW
    Insulation
    AHE KAQ JUQ, HG0B
    Suspension
    Web with Triangles
    Posts
    4,504
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    2
    Quote Originally Posted by bnolsen View Post
    Ahhh, sliders. I have some and then it will be a mobile indoor hammock stand.
    Have sherpas, will travel...
    Triangles, it's all about the triangles.
    H30º ™
    HTA

    8.7167º

  6. #196
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Oakland, Ca
    Posts
    375
    Quote Originally Posted by zukiguy View Post
    The rubber caps seem to work just fine but are a snug fit. A little silicone grease from the pool supplies made them a lot easier to install.
    A little trick from my days of working on bikes. Spray some hairspray in the caps. It'll lubricate them to make putting them on super easy and when it dries it'll stick em in place like glue but will still be able to be removed if you really want to take em off.

  7. #197
    New Member
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    Oct 2015
    Location
    Centennial, CO
    Posts
    6
    okay got it set up using a 6ft and 4ft section from the same pole. This is a yukon mosquito xl i got from the recent woot deal.

    IMG_20160521_173825.jpgIMG_20160521_173843.jpg

  8. #198
    Senior Member Texas Hanger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Hammock
    DIY 11',65W;V-Allen Bridge
    Tarp
    Super Fly
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    Klymt Ins V AirMat
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    Whoopi Slings
    Posts
    265
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    6
    Quote Originally Posted by Hammonkey View Post
    A little trick from my days of working on bikes. Spray some hairspray in the caps. It'll lubricate them to make putting them on super easy and when it dries it'll stick em in place like glue but will still be able to be removed if you really want to take em off.
    Nice tip! Thanks for sharing...
    Failure is a good friend you will meet on the road to success. Just remember, he will give the best directions...

  9. #199
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Oakland, Ca
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    375
    So I got mine built today and tested it out.

    I started with 4 10.5' poles and cut 6' legs from each. The 1 1/4" rubber caps took a little coaxing to fit on, but with some hairspray and something to help pry them on like a bike tire they fit perfectly on the 1 3/8" rails. I cut the swagged end off one of the remaining 4.5' sections used that as the middle of my 3 piece top rail by fitting the swagged ends into the middle and then secured them with the connectors just for added security. Using this method resulted in a top rail that was 153" long, absolutely perfect for my 12' ridgeline hex tarp. I am happy I went with the 6' legs and feel that it sets me at a good height. I dont have to bend over much to avoid hitting my head, and my tarp sets up pretty well underneath it. I still need to make some continuous loops the perfect length so I can just attach to the continuous loops of my hammock with a carabiner, and then make two more so I can attach my tarp the same way with some mini biners.

    The one problem I seem to be having is that I notice a little slippage of the L sections inward. I have the screws tweaked down pretty hard and I still noticed that they wanted to slide inward on the pole. They would hold if Im lying still, but if I get a good bounce I did notice some slippage. Any solutions for this? I was considering drilling holes in the poles, but I dont want to mess up the threads by the bar putting stress on them and damaging the threads leaving me stuck with being unable to screw them in and out at all. This would also limit the angle I set the legs at, and I also worry that this would add a lot of wobble due to the poles not being clamped tight to the wall of the L sections.

    I currently have my continuous loops hung over the L the way bnolsen has in his picture on post 197. I've considered making some attachment point on the end of the poles to prevent this, but dont want to put stress on my ridge poles and cause failure by not attaching as close as I can to where the legs connect (I'm 245lbs)... I dunno what do you guys think?
    Last edited by Hammonkey; 05-25-2016 at 02:47.

  10. #200
    Senior Member zukiguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Space Coast FL
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    Warbonnet Ridgerunner
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    For the slippage problem you mention here's what I did. For the outer-most bracket, run the screw all the way in so instead of pressing down on the ridge pole it now acts like a stop. My hammock is hung from a tree strap wrapped around both leg brackets. This way the tension holds the brackets together on each end as well as pulling the outer one solidly against the end of the ridge pole. Hopefully this makes some kind of sense. I'll try and take a photo later.

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