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  1. #661
    Senior Member BillyBob58's Avatar
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    OK, folks, how about an update. I think this was discussed earlier. How about rust? Are Y'all seeing much, and does it concern you?

    I have not taken the best care of mine, and it has spent most of it's 2 1/2 years out in the elements. Today I got to looking close and there is a good bit of rust inside the L brackets. And some rust on other couplers and top rails. Just got done doing my best to go over everything with "The Must for Rust" from HD or Lowe's, I've had pretty good luck with that with some other metal surfaces, gets rid of visible rust and works as a pretty good preservative/preventative as well.

    But, I do wonder how much any piece of metal has been weakened by rust. I don't see any holes all the way thru yet, it all appears to be on the surface, though pretty thick in a couple of spots inside the L brackets. If I had it to do over again I would have treated all of this metal with "The Must for Rust" to start with. Though getting to the middle of a long piece is not easy. Or, I would just break it down and store it in the garage/attic. It is probably fine, as I have not yet heard of a rusted piece giving way on anybody. Yet.

  2. #662
    Senior Member OneClick's Avatar
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    No rust on mine but I only left it in the rain a couple times. Maybe a little on the edges where it got chipped. I leave it mostly put together and store in the garage.

  3. #663
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    I'll have to check closer, but I haven't noticed any rust on mine. It has been stored outside since I made it.

  4. #664
    Senior Member P-Dub's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joemomma View Post
    I'll have to check closer, but I haven't noticed any rust on mine. It has been stored outside since I made it.
    Same here...

  5. #665
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    Finally finished my build. I’m leaving it up overnight in the yard to see if it stays good might even sleep in it tonight.
    View in porch mode


    Not porch mode


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  6. #666
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    Just a note I am 300 lbs and set by bipod up in the living room on wooden floors. I had the feet tied so it would not spread. But they were able to slide together and bend the top rail. I will have to rebuild lol.


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  7. #667
    Senior Member BillyBob58's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobScottStewart View Post
    Just a note I am 300 lbs and set by bipod up in the living room on wooden floors. I had the feet tied so it would not spread. But they were able to slide together and bend the top rail. I will have to rebuild lol.


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    Sorry to hear that. So the L brackets that the top rail goes thru(and that the legs go into) moved towards the middle? So does that mean your hammock was hooked around the L brackets rather than thru the end caps or a stout eye bolt on the ends of the top rail? I ave used the end caps that don't look strong enough for over 2 years and they have not broken. I have a carabiner (sp?) that runs thru the end cap and attach the hammock to that biner. But, if paranoid about it not being strong enough(plus I have not been over 226 lbs), you can simply wrap the hammock suspension around the fence post and or L brackets before attaching to the end caps or biner. This will share a lot of load taking some of it off of the end caps, but the end caps will still stop the brackets from moving towards the center.

    Were you using the standard 1 3/8" fence top rail from Lowe's or Home Depot or wherever?

    Did it bend at a joint? Regardless, consider bracing it with something either inside the fence post or around the joints. I have found that the 3/4" EMT, 10 ft for just $6, adds a huge amount of strength when placed inside the fence post. You can run it full length or just at the weak spots/joints. Or, 1" ( $10) might even fit for even more strength. Another thing I have done to beef up joints(other than use the little sleeves from HD/Lowe's, which do help) is cut a piece of chain link fence upright into 2 ft sections to go around the joint. I think I used the 1 5/8" upright. I used that around a 15 ft long top rail with joints that ran between two 2X4 uprights for many years. It never came close to bending(I was 200-226 lbs max)

    Last edited by BillyBob58; 11-27-2020 at 10:28.

  8. #668
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillyBob58 View Post
    Sorry to hear that. So the L brackets that the top rail goes thru(and that the legs go into) moved towards the middle? So does that mean your hammock was hooked around the L brackets rather than thru the end caps or a stout eye bolt on the ends of the top rail? I ave used the end caps that don't look strong enough for over 2 years and they have not broken. I have a carabiner (sp?) that runs thru the end cap and attach the hammock to that biner. But, if paranoid about it not being strong enough(plus I have not been over 226 lbs), you can simply wrap the hammock suspension around the fence post and or L brackets before attaching to the end caps or biner. This will share a lot of load taking some of it off of the end caps, but the end caps will still stop the brackets from moving towards the center.

    Were you using the standard 1 3/8" fence top rail from Lowe's or Home Depot or wherever?

    Did it bend at a joint? Regardless, consider bracing it with something either inside the fence post or around the joints. I have found that the 3/4" EMT, 10 ft for just $6, adds a huge amount of strength when placed inside the fence post. You can run it full length or just at the weak spots/joints. Or, 1" ( $10) might even fit for even more strength. Another thing I have done to beef up joints(other than use the little sleeves from HD/Lowe's, which do help) is cut a piece of chain link fence upright into 2 ft sections to go around the joint. I think I used the 1 5/8" upright. I used that around a 15 ft long top rail with joints that ran between two 2X4 uprights for many years. It never came close to bending(I was 200-226 lbs max)

    Thanks for the reply and help. I was using end caps and the connectors from Tarps.com to make a sectional top rail. The top rail bent up as the bottom of the feet slid in closer to each other. I’m still trying to figure out exactly how it failed. I think that bracing the feet to keep them from moving in would have helped. One of the sections of the top was a little bent to start with. It worked really well outside so I think this was a problem with the metal on wood floor. I kinda messed up the floor too.


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  9. #669
    Senior Member BillyBob58's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobScottStewart View Post
    Thanks for the reply and help. I was using end caps and the connectors from Tarps.com to make a sectional top rail. The top rail bent up as the bottom of the feet slid in closer to each other. I’m still trying to figure out exactly how it failed. I think that bracing the feet to keep them from moving in would have helped. One of the sections of the top was a little bent to start with. It worked really well outside so I think this was a problem with the metal on wood floor. I kinda messed up the floor too.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    You are saying that the lt feet moved towards the rt feet, rather than apart? They moved towards each other, "closer to each other."? Rather than away from each other, the way we are normally concerned about which is why we run a cord from left to right? WOW! I'm stumped on that one! Never heard of such. Seems almost impossible. But apparently not!

  10. #670
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillyBob58 View Post
    You are saying that the lt feet moved towards the rt feet, rather than apart? They moved towards each other, "closer to each other."? Rather than away from each other, the way we are normally concerned about which is why we run a cord from left to right? WOW! I'm stumped on that one! Never heard of such. Seems almost impossible. But apparently not!
    As I was lying in the hammock the foot end slid across the floor towards the head end.


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