While laying out earlier this summer I decided to do a quick impromptu video. I don't think I posted it here. Nothing special or new...just figured I would share here as well.
While laying out earlier this summer I decided to do a quick impromptu video. I don't think I posted it here. Nothing special or new...just figured I would share here as well.
Thanks, OneClick!
Was that coupler from Lowe’s (with the fence rail) or did you order it from the same source as the 90 degree “arms”? I like the eye-bolt hold on the coupler. I’d like to use such stand for a Ridge Runner so would need to use two fence rails cut to 14 - 15 feet.
If you needed to tarp it, I’d imagine you could string the tarp suspension under that top fence rail?
In order to see what few have seen, you must go where few have gone. And DO what few have done.
I purchased the coupler from the same online tarp store. Stronger, longer and eye bolts are nice. The Lowes coupler is only 6" long total.Originally Posted by cougarmeat
The tarp fits, even my big 12' winter haven. I made it specifically to fit that. Here it is with the 11' Mamajamba. I believe my top rail is 14.5'
I have used both brand/type of couplers. The one from the online tarp store is quite superior, but the ones from Lowes/HD are better than nothing. And useful, particulary if used along with the swaged end inserted into the fence top rail, to beef up that connection.I purchased the coupler from the same online tarp store. Stronger, longer and eye bolts are nice. The Lowes coupler is only 6" long total.
The tarp fits, even my big 12' winter haven. I made it specifically to fit that. Here it is with the 11' Mamajamba. I believe my top rail is 14.5'
I have attached tarps under the top rail, and over it. I have some large, cheap tarps from Harbor Freight which I am not much concerned about damaging, and I tend to just throw those over the top. They are big enough that I can put them to the ground on the windward side if needed, even from over the top rail.
But I need to throw out a caution regarding the eye bolt screws that come on the couplers. I have had one( or maybe 2?) top rails bend on me near the ends, believe it or not. This never happened- at least not since once 12 years ago , different story, bent at the junction of a swaged end- but since then never came close to happening until high winds(which were bringing down trees all around- came up under the tarp, lifted the unoccupied stand, topped it on one end, twisting it and tearing the tarp. Amazingly, the weight of one end collapsing was enough to slightly bend the top rail. Trying to use it, one of the shorter segments bent to the point of unusable.
But here is what I discovered: where it bent was at a point where the eye bolts had put dents in the top rail. So, now, I do not try to use those eye bolts to prevent or slow down movement. If I tighten them, it is only going to be to the point of slight contact. The only thing to keep the legs/ A frame from spreading out is the rope near the ground. In order to keep any segments from separating, like say to keep the legs from falling out of the L brackets if I lift it up, or a top rail segment from separating when unoccupied, I have just put some duct tape over the joints. Believe it or not, that has held just fine, after all there no significant force trying to separate them, all the force when occupied is pressing joints together, especially the top rail.
But, even better is to use some cordage to apply pressure from foot end to head end even when unoccupied. Same can be done for the legs. Or, of course, some holes drilled and bolts or connectors placed thru would be the real way to end concerns about separation. But if using eye bolts for that purpose, be careful not to apply enough pressure to dent the fence rail even in a 1/4" diameter area. I suspect that causes a potential failure area in the future, especially if you use that section outside of a bracket. Just something to watch out for.
That's for mentioning that. You can see in my photo, I hang the hammock from the outer 90° piece instead of from a hook on the pipe's end (I don't like that for some reason). So I need to crank my bolts down tight or else the hammock will pull and slide the fittings along the top rail.
I'll keep an eye on this.
Yep, I know exactly what you mean about the L brackets wanting to slide toward the middle. In fact, that may be why I torqued down pretty good on the eye bolts a few times. But main thing is to avoid actually putting a dent in the top rail.
I have always hung from the little end cap covers that was used in the OP. Always made me a little nervous,but believe it or not, has never failed me must be well over 2 years now. But, looking at your set up, it has occurred to me I can do a hybrid. (which I have actually done once or twice trying to get a few extra inches height with my HT90 or Ninox): I can attach to a biner/end caps, and then run a strap over the brackets like you do. This should( maybe? ) reduce the load on the end caps, as well as prevent the brackets from moving inwards. I plan on experimenting with that.
I purchased those caps, but quickly nixed that after seeing how cheap they looked. But that doesn't necessarily mean anything. And that would also add about 12" total to my attachment point, requiring longer legs to get the right hang. But...I have been wanting to get my hammock a little higher anyway.
Also, any small dents are probably not an issue- I think - as long as the dents are always inside a bracket or coupling. Where I probably ran into problems is sometimes I use a short top rail, like for my HT90 which is hard to keep high enough off the ground and shorter distance between attach point helps. Other times, almost 15 feet for my WBRR, and maybe I have an in between one. Over time, when I would break this down and then put it back together, I probably ended up with a section that used to be inside a coupler or L bracket, and now was not, and it had dents in it. But, I suspect if always inside a coupler, no problems.
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