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  1. #121
    Senior Member BigE94's Avatar
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    Only a buck more eh? I should have thought of that.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
    I would rather be in the woods... my dog would rather be in the pool. My wife thinks we are both nuts.

  2. #122
    Senior Member
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    A clevis pin to fix the L fitting to the ridgepole would take the ridge pole compression off the eyebolt for those that hang from the leg fittings.

  3. #123
    Senior Member Ratdog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreatBigDave View Post
    A clevis pin to fix the L fitting to the ridgepole would take the ridge pole compression off the eyebolt for those that hang from the leg fittings.
    That would mean drilling both the L fitting as well as the ridgepole.

    Given the thin gauge of the fence rail tops, I hesitate to drill them for the S hooks in the leg anywhere other than the very bottom, let alone a load bearing section.

    The eyebolt creates an interference fit and worst case, slides a bit which would then transfer the load to parts of the thru tube and contact points w/ the ridgepole. A clevis pin would create sheer forces at the pin location where the pole and L have been drilled, no?

    I have fistful of leftover clevis pins and have been considering where and when to use them. It is tempting to use them at the ridgepole if for nothing else than to mark various widths of 10', 11', 12', 13' etc. not that I want to make swiss cheese out of the rails but it would be convenient.
    Have sherpas, will travel...
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  4. #124
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    I think the clevis pin would bear the shear force of the entire axial compression in the ridge pole. Without it, the same force would have to be overcome by the friction between the ridgepole and the L + bolt end and a shear force in the eye bolt between the inside threads and the end and the shear force in the tubing wall where the eye bolt bites in and bends the ridge pole. The deflection of the shape of the tubing would worsen as the eyebolt is cranked down to create more friction.

    It would be possible to just drill the far end of the L bracket and let the ridge pole butt against the pin.

    I think I'd sooner have ridge pole sections of varying length than to make one adjustable with holes - there will be forces in the ridge pole perpendicular to the axis. Scoothching myself around in the hammock to get in the sweet spot creates longitudinal motion in my spurtle stand that is resisted by perpendicular forces in the ridge pole and the L brackets.

    How big are the clevis pins? Are they quality steel or more of a shear pin?

  5. #125
    Senior Member KeeWayKeno's Avatar
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    I don't suppose anybody knows of any retail outlets for these canopy fittings in southern Ontario? No luck on Internet search so far, trying to mitigate brutal exchange rate, customs & shipping charges if possible. Surprised they're so hard to source locally given how popular canopy structures are.

    Sent from my SM-T700 using Tapatalk

  6. #126
    Senior Member Ratdog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreatBigDave View Post
    I think the clevis pin would bear the shear force of the entire axial compression in the ridge pole. Without it, the same force would have to be overcome by the friction between the ridgepole and the L + bolt end and a shear force in the eye bolt between the inside threads and the end and the shear force in the tubing wall where the eye bolt bites in and bends the ridge pole. The deflection of the shape of the tubing would worsen as the eyebolt is cranked down to create more friction.

    It would be possible to just drill the far end of the L bracket and let the ridge pole butt against the pin.

    I think I'd sooner have ridge pole sections of varying length than to make one adjustable with holes - there will be forces in the ridge pole perpendicular to the axis. Scoothching myself around in the hammock to get in the sweet spot creates longitudinal motion in my spurtle stand that is resisted by perpendicular forces in the ridge pole and the L brackets.

    How big are the clevis pins? Are they quality steel or more of a shear pin?
    They are clevis pins from a now defunct carport canopy frame, not shear pins.

    I like the idea, going to start with the eye bolts and dial in my preferred Ridgepole length and go from there.

    I will used them at the bottom of the legs as anchors for the amsteel loops to go over.

    Also going price out powder coating.

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  7. #127
    Senior Member BigE94's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreatBigDave View Post
    I think the clevis pin would bear the shear force of the entire axial compression in the ridge pole. Without it, the same force would have to be overcome by the friction between the ridgepole and the L + bolt end and a shear force in the eye bolt between the inside threads and the end and the shear force in the tubing wall where the eye bolt bites in and bends the ridge pole. The deflection of the shape of the tubing would worsen as the eyebolt is cranked down to create more friction.

    It would be possible to just drill the far end of the L bracket and let the ridge pole butt against the pin.

    I think I'd sooner have ridge pole sections of varying length than to make one adjustable with holes - there will be forces in the ridge pole perpendicular to the axis. Scoothching myself around in the hammock to get in the sweet spot creates longitudinal motion in my spurtle stand that is resisted by perpendicular forces in the ridge pole and the L brackets.

    How big are the clevis pins? Are they quality steel or more of a shear pin?
    I pinned my legs to create two sections. I would have no qualms with drilling holes. As for cranking the eye bolts down I just tightened them by hand. No tools for on or off and no bending of the ridge pole. I made going to add some support in the sections of ridge pole, some feet and call it done. I'm 350lbs and mine doesn't balk a bit with me in it.

    I actually made a TD stand using 3/4 and 1/2 in emt to create adjustable legs and that held me just fine.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
    I would rather be in the woods... my dog would rather be in the pool. My wife thinks we are both nuts.

  8. #128
    Senior Member BigE94's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ratdog View Post
    They are clevis pins from a now defunct carport canopy frame, not shear pins.

    I like the idea, going to start with the eye bolts and dial in my preferred Ridgepole length and go from there.

    I will used them at the bottom of the legs as anchors for the amsteel loops to go over.

    Also going price out powder coating.

    Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk
    I like the powder coating idea. I have a local shop I have dealt with before, but I can just see the parts getting all scratched up. Powder is tough but when you start cranking on an eye out.. I don't know. Let me know how that goes

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
    I would rather be in the woods... my dog would rather be in the pool. My wife thinks we are both nuts.

  9. #129
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    PC is a pretty good idea. My unpainted spurtle stand is starting to show some rust after being out in snow, rain, and mud.

  10. #130
    Senior Member cmseeley's Avatar
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    This stand... what a great idea!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by GreatBigDave View Post
    A clevis pin to fix the L fitting to the ridgepole would take the ridge pole compression off the eyebolt for those that hang from the leg fittings.
    Has anyone used a pin like this yet?

    I think I will be ordering some fittings. I wonder what diameter the poles are that I have buried in the storage shed. They are from an old trampoline? Pretty sure they are heavier gauge than fence rail top poles. Time to start digging I guess.
    Chris (Chipper)

    It seems like a good time to get lost in the woods for a few days! --www.chipperoutdoors.com-- or ---facebook---

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