The frame saver didn't make the pipes hard to slide together, so that's good. I'm starting with 6'6" legs and 7'6" top posts x2 for roughly 15' to see what I need for my Ridge Runner to work with a tarp.
Thankfully my shop is big enough for assembly.
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7.5' top poles, 6.5' legs. Eye bolts to stop legs from spreading. End bolts on the Ls screwed in to stop the legs from walking in. Straps adjusted and marked H and F.
It works great with my WBRR. I'm happy with how sturdy it feels.
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"It turns out that what you have is less important than what you do with it"
Looks great. I’m thinking about trying to break mine down into trunk packable pieces. For car camping. It’s hard to do since I use it every night instead of a bed.
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Screwing in the end eye bolt kept the legs from walking in.
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I am thinking I'll use a screw in anchor on each end to tie it down so I don't have to worry about it flying away during my week at scout camp.
"It turns out that what you have is less important than what you do with it"
That's a good idea if it will be unattended at any point. Without someone in it, the hammock will catch wind and knock the thing down. I'll take a chance on a calm day, but if it's windy in my yard I take the hammock down.Originally Posted by goalie
Nice to see this thread is still going! When I posted I had no idea so many people would end up making it.
Rob, I also was using mine nightly for over 2 years. Nice to see others using it for full-time hanging. Makes me a little less weird, haha.
I still use the stand for outdoor hanging occasionally, but I have since upgraded my indoor nightly setup after remodeling the room it was in (massive increase in wife-approval factor!):
https://hammockforums.net/forum/show...-hanging-setup
My wife thinks it's a great idea for me to use for a week at scout camp, but there's no freaking way it would ever get inside the house.
I'm going to hang tonight to see how it goes for sleeping.
"It turns out that what you have is less important than what you do with it"
Guy lines on each end got rid of the end to end wobble.
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"It turns out that what you have is less important than what you do with it"
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This is the perfect size for my WBRR
"It turns out that what you have is less important than what you do with it"
When using that fence railing, what ends need to be tapered? For example, each 10 ft pole - by the way, their price has gone from about $10/pole to about $18 - has one tapered end. If you need a tapered end at the bottom of a leg so a rubber foot will fit, that’s 4 poles and if you need a tapered end to go in the top pole middle joint, that’s two more poles.
I’d like to use all the material and also give it Ridge Runner potential which means about a 15 ft spread - or two 7.5 ft pieces for the top, leaving two 3 ft sections behind.
If a tapered end is needed in the legs - either at the bottom for foot or at the top to go into the bracket, that’s four more “orphaned” pieces.
Is that just the cost of doing business - six poles and a lot of left over 3 - 4 sections? Has anyone tried to tape a 2 x 2 wooden piece to fit in the bracket so you’d have four wooden legs and metal fence rail top bar?
In order to see what few have seen, you must go where few have gone. And DO what few have done.
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