DIY Climashield All in One Insulated Hammock

[Intimidator]

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[brianb]

Let me know if you have any questions.
Shawn

Thanks for the link. Makes sense, this gives you a finished edge with less effort. I can see the advantage, especially if you're working with multiple layers. Lots to choose from at that link. Do you think I'll be judged if I choose a Disney princess border for my hammock .

Thanks again, looking forward to seeing your next iteration. Brian

[Intimidator]

Just finalized the details for Shawn to make me one. Using dutch charcoal grey Hexon 1.6 and blaze orange membrane 66 for the quilt with black binding. Also decided to go with clima 5.. Pretty dang excited.

[theclark5]

Do you think I'll be judged if I choose a Disney princess border for my hammock .

No judgement here. My daughter would demand Tiana!

[Intimidator]

Hey there everyone... Just got some time to finally hang the beautiful insulated hammock that theclark5 made for me. Charcoal Hexon 1.6, 66 membrane blaze orange quilt material . unlike his , this one has a top on the quilt for better protection, at almost no weight penalty. Laid in it today and I was very warm with climashield 6.0 venting is easy and I noticed no compression, although I need to get someone out here to help me adjust it properly with someone in the hammock. Extremely cool and a big thanks to Shawn!

[Fastmatt]

That's a sweet set up. And I even like the color.

[compman2]

Here is a thought. A hammock is never stretched tight side to side, so the fabric widths can match exactly in that direction. Your design nicely avoids pulling the insulation tight head to toe.

I have been wondering about this as well.

Another thought that I have had is to use a low stretch fabric sewn directly to the hammock and then sew the insulation to another piece of fabric allowing a generous margin around the outside. This could be sewn or simply knotted to the to the first piece so that if it stretched the generous margins would simply take up slack. To keep the insulation from sagging you could then use comforter knots to keep the insulation close. I have used these knots in a rayway top quilt and they are easy to do. This would keep the insulation from being under tension and float below the hammock keeping compression from being a problem. You could use more knots around the perimeter to make sure it was sealed up well. It wouldn't have a sleek sexy look on the outside but may help with compression problems.

I don't know if I described this well, words are a tricky thing. I am sure a picture or diagram would help.

[Just Bill]

Nice work. The cut on the insulation is a great innovation too... I had a hard time picturing how to pull it off in a gathered end and this is an elegant solution for sure.

On the side to side stretch... I'm not a gathered end person... but on my small bridges I easily pick up 2-3" of stretch at my butt. While it would be much harder to measure on a gathered end it's there. Hell that's why folks like hammocks and debate different fabrics and weights because they stretch differently for each user.


The other thought to keep in mind, is the point loading you'll do getting in and out, for me I found the sweet spot in the bridge where when I sat down I bottomed out (but didn't damage/stretch) the insulation... and when I laid flat and spread the load the insulation wasn't droopy.

Here's an insulated bridge I did last year. I like the concept overall, and think that a summer application makes the most sense as you can always add an UQ to your "base" hammock when needed. https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...03#post1359403

Apex 3.0 is a bit light. Though in the bridge I did use 2.5 and added a second layer in a torso shape in V1, and just a butt pad shape in V2. I was pretty happy into the upper 40's with that, but I sleep a bit warm.

As this was meant to be UL- Just like folks using 3/4 or less UQ's and some spot insulation to cover problem spots, I think that you could take this design and use say- Apex 3.6 from RBTR as the main piece, and some small pads at the head side shoulder, butt, and heel or even a full torso pad sized piece. That would give you 3.6 at for the bulk of the hammock, and double that just where you needed it. It would likely take an otherwise 45-55* quilt and let you stretch to 35* or so without doubling the bulk.

I would hang your older version and literally trace out your butt, shoulder and feet (with a helper) on the outer UQ shell. That would let you spot exactly where to sew the Apex to the outer shell, then add at least an inch to the width to give it room and sew the single layer of insulation over the spot insulation as you did the first time.

FWIW- One reason I think not going too far past 3.6 or 5.0 is because of bulk.
Unfortunately a compression sack is a bad choice, don't overcompress Apex, you'll damage it.

[theclark5]

I love hearing the comments and suggestions. I just finished another that I utilized the Costco quilt as an underquilt with some differential cuts on the quilt that really minimized the sag when it is hung. I'll get pics posted later. The down really minimizes the bulk.

[awilhelm13]

To save some weight I first lay in the hammock and mark my body position. Then I disassemble the hammock and sew in a pre made UQ along the marked line. An UQ is quite narrow, 1.2 meter width, that is enough to cover me. I had considered to make the UQ detachable by zippers or buttons, but did not implemented that yet.

This to me seems like the most logical method of getting the actual shape of your body in the hammock to use as a template for your insulation pattern. It should help avoid wasting insulation in areas where you don't need it and consequently save a little weight in the process.