My DIY HyperD 1.0 Hammock

[WaffleBox]

As part of my quest to make everything I own out of Olive Yellow fabric, I made a single layer hammock over the weekend. It is made out of HyperD 1.0 from Ripstop by the Roll. I included a Knotty mod at the head end and a stretchable foot box at the foot end. I used eyelets as the channel openings for the shock cord. Before doing any sewing, I whipped the ends of the fabric to three different lengths - 11', 10' 6", and 10' - to see how short I could make it while still being super comfortable. I decided on 10' 6", though the actual finished dimensions ended up being 10' 5" due to a minor design error. I forgot to included the 0.5" on each end where the hem was sewn to the hammock in making the end channels while setting up my measurements. I used the full width of the fabric.

It came out really great. It is super comfortable, and I am able to get a fair bit more diagonal than I could on my other hammock, a modified Streamliner from Simply Light Designs. I'm excited about the footbox because I've had several instances where the short pad I put under my feet inside my top quilt on cold nights has slipped over the edge of the hammock. Hopefully that won't happen anymore. I'm also pretty proud of how straight the stitching is, given I only touched a sewing machine for the first time in my life less than 2 months ago. Hemming the half-circle for the footbox was a freaking miserable experience, though. I had to rip out the thread and start over 4-5 times, and only succeeded in getting it done after pinning it every couple of inches.

Between this project and my fleece underquilt, I think I've decided that 1/16" shock cord is pretty much useless. I've got some 3/32" and 1/8" on order to see if I like those better for using in channels.

The hammock ended up at 6.3 oz. I am 5' 9" and weigh about 165 and have slept in it the past 4 nights with a continuous loop run through the end channel. There are no signs of wear, damage, stretching of the fabric, or anything else at the end channels, which are triple stitched.

My next project is an olive yellow tarp made out of SilPoly from Ripstop by the Roll. I'm going to try an idea that I haven't seen done before so hopefully it will work out. If the fabric gets here on time, I plan on making it this weekend.

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Bask in the olive yellow glory.

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Knotty mod

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Stretchable foot box

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End channel after 4 nights of use

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With its matching fleece underquilt

[MAD777]

Nice work WaffleBox! The stretch footbox is in all my hammocks, on both sides so I can switch diagonals during the night.

With the 1/16" shock cord in the footbox, stretched tight, I haven't seen the need for a Knotty mod. If the shock cord is stretched tight enough, it serves the same purpose. I have my shock cord extended to its maximum length when the hammock edge is straight, in other words, on the side opposite my feet. With that much tension, I have found that there is enough tension to hold in my quilts on the foot side and enough to eliminate any flop on the non-foot side.

Also, instead of a half moon footbox, I use a triangle shape. It works just as well and is less of a pain to sew.

IMO, all netless hammocks should be made this way. It also allows me to use narrower, 54" wide, hammocks, which save some weight.

[bennybunny73]

Great ! Looks really nice !

Greetings to FL,
Ben.

[daverr]

Nice work WaffleBox! The stretch footbox is in all my hammocks, on both sides so I can switch diagonals during the night.

With the 1/16" shock cord in the footbox, stretched tight, I haven't seen the need for a Knotty mod. If the shock cord is stretched tight enough, it serves the same purpose. I have my shock cord extended to its maximum length when the hammock edge is straight, in other words, on the side opposite my feet. With that much tension, I have found that there is enough tension to hold in my quilts on the foot side and enough to eliminate any flop on the non-foot side.

Also, instead of a half moon footbox, I use a triangle shape. It works just as well and is less of a pain to sew.

IMO, all netless hammocks should be made this way. It also allows me to use narrower, 54" wide, hammocks, which save some weight.

Would you mind sharing where you sew the footbox (and the length of the hammock). I.e. - a 20x30 triangle where I start sewing at 10 inches from the channel and stop sewing at 46 inches from the channel.

[MAD777]

My hammock is 11' (132"). Half of that is 66" and the midpoint of that 66" is where I sew the midpoint of the long side of the triangle. In other words, the midpoint of the triangle is at the 1/4 point of the hammock. (I am 6'-1" tall and that's where my feet land).

The triangle itself is cut 15.5" by 60". By the time I make a generous channel for the shock cord and hem it all around, the finished size is about 4 feet by 1 foot.

So, the midpoint of that 4' side is sewn to the 1/4 point of the hammock.

I sew 1/2" wide grosgrain loops into both ends of the channel and attach the 1/16" shock cord to them with a bowline knots. Assuming that the long side of the triangle is 4 feet, I stretch the shock cord to its maximum stretch, then measure 4 feet plus enough to tie the bowline knots.

I do this to both sides of the hammock. The tension in the footbox side keeps my quilts in and the tension (which is maxed out) on the non-foot side eliminates any floppy fabric.

[daverr]

My hammock is 11' (132"). Half of that is 66" and the midpoint of that 66" is where I sew the midpoint of the long side of the triangle. In other words, the midpoint of the triangle is at the 1/4 point of the hammock. (I am 6'-1" tall and that's where my feet land).

The triangle itself is cut 15.5" by 60". By the time I make a generous channel for the shock cord and hem it all around, the finished size is about 4 feet by 1 foot.

So, the midpoint of that 4' side is sewn to the 1/4 point of the hammock.

I sew 1/2" wide grosgrain loops into both ends of the channel and attach the 1/16" shock cord to them with a bowline knots. Assuming that the long side of the triangle is 4 feet, I stretch the shock cord to its maximum stretch, then measure 4 feet plus enough to tie the bowline knots.

I do this to both sides of the hammock. The tension in the footbox side keeps my quilts in and the tension (which is maxed out) on the non-foot side eliminates any floppy fabric.

Thanks, this helps a lot.

Do you find that this affects (improves) the calf ridge?

[MAD777]

Thanks, this helps a lot.

Do you find that this affects (improves) the calf ridge?

No, this just keeps your quilt from going overboard and allows the hammock to be more narrow (important to us gram weenies).

The only thing I do to help with calf ridge is cut the foot end on a curve such that the centerline of the hammock is 3" longer than the edges.

I find that shifting my rear end to the side is the best cure for calf Ridge.

[Snowball]

Any negative progress in this hammock (regarding the fabric)?
I am curious because IMO you have pushed the limit and if it holds up maybe it’s a path for others to take.

[WaffleBox]

None so far. I've mostly been using my PolyD 1.2 hammock for my daily sleeping in order to preserve the HyperD for the trail. But I did use the HyperD for about 2.5 weeks straight after I made it and it showed zero signs of wear after a careful examination.

[craige]

Nice work!
Snowball, I wouldn't say wafflebox is pushing the limit... I probably am, my weight varies between 220-235lbs and I have 20+ nights in my 1.0 HyperD. No signs of wear yet