Spacing out tie-outs on a 12" rectangular tarp

[Japhy Ryder]

After hours of videos and threads and two prototypes, I have decided against doing cat-cuts on my new tarp and instead am going to stick with a 12x10 rectangle. The "Fortress" thread is what sold me on the versatility of the rectangular design.

My question is, is there is a general rule of thumb in terms of spacing out the tie-outs in the rectangular design? I plan on having 5 tie-outs on each side, plus two side panel pulls, and 1 tie out on each end about mid-way between the ridgeline and the bottom edge.

I know I don't just want to take that 12' and divide by 5. for the 144" edge, i was thinking along the lines of from A to B 30" B to C 42" C to D 42" D to E 30"

Does this sound reasonable and will it give the versatility of angling the corners in for doors? Will i have any problems keeping the edges taunt with 42" between points?

Edit:title incorrect. Feet not Inches

I appreciate any input of advice.

[ksbcrocks]

I just made a 10x12 and put tie outs 3 feet from the edge on the long sides. I didn't really experiment much with any other distance, but it works really well for closing the ends like doors.

[hotelzulu]

I just made a 10x12 and put tie outs 3 feet from the edge on the long sides. I didn't really experiment much with any other distance, but it works really well for closing the ends like doors.

I did literally this exact thing too. 36 inch per door sounded reasonable to me, although I have not tested it yet. I hope to get out this weekend to see how my measurements worked out.

[WV]

I suggest taking a minimalist approach. Sew good tieout points at the four corners, then use moveable tarp grips for ridgeline and side tieouts. Use it for a season or two, and then maybe sew on some reinforced ridgeline tieouts if you've settled on a single location for a ridgeline. You'll learn a lot experimenting with different configurations. There's also the advantage of less construction time, plus the fact that on a regular basis you'll be using the technology you'll need to employ for field repairs. I like to tie off to vegetation, especially in porch mode, and finding the right trees can be difficult. Moving a tieout point is easier than moving a tree. (Another, perhaps better, solution is to run a clothesline more or less parallel to the edge of the tarp about 4 to 8 feet from it and tie off to it. A 50' length of Zing-it makes a great clothesline, and it doubles as a spare food bag rope, plus you can cannibalize 10' off the end if you need to make a new guy line or extend an existing one.)

[ksbcrocks]

Here's what it looks like.

I was able to get a better looking pitch the other day, but I forgot to take a picture. I pulled the sides out a little further, the doors came together better too, and the doors didn't need a stake.

[Japhy Ryder]

KSB and Hotel,

with just the two tie-outs, have you experienced any problems keeping that long section (72") taut? any floppy edges?


I live in MI and do at least 2 winter trips every year, so I will probably add a middle tie-out for peace of mind in windy conditions. But I am a little worried that I will over-kill the tie-outs and add unnecessary weight.

But, you gave me my answer thank you. 36" all the way around ought to do the trick.

Thanks for the help.

Adam

[Japhy Ryder]

WV,

I have seen those tap grips, I can't remember it was on Dutch or JRB. Have you had good success with them? Do they seem to hold well without damaging the material?

Thanks.

[ksbcrocks]

I haven't had any issues with the tarp getting floppy on the long edge, but I haven't really used the tarp extensively either. I do have shock cord on the tieouts, so that may be part of the solution.

[WV]

WV,

I have seen those tap grips, I can't remember it was on Dutch or JRB. Have you had good success with them? Do they seem to hold well without damaging the material?

Thanks.

I've used 3 or 4 different types, and none of them have damaged silnylon or cuben tarps. They may slide on sil. If the tarp edge is hemmed they usually stop at the hem. Some people have suggested using a deflated balloon sandwiched with a tarp grip to provide friction on silnylon. I have tried that, and it works, but it's a bit of a nuisance, and it's mostly not necessary. I sometimes carry a balloon along with a spare tarp grip in my tool kit, though. One type of tarp grip I have used consists of wrapping the fabric around a smooth pebble or an acorn and tying it with string. I've done large polyethylene tarps with tieouts like that and they've done well in some pretty big storms.

Of the commercial ones I like these. I use the two smallest sizes. I haven't tried Dutch's tarp clips, but the design looks good. I expect they might be a bit easier to install and maybe easier on the tarp. They cost more, though.

Some of the other makes intended for cheap poly tarps are comparatively heavy.