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  1. #21
    Senior Member NWAlabamaHiker's Avatar
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    Pros/Cons Karo Step Topquilt

    I'm not a super big guy, just average size I'd say. 5'10" 200 lb'ish. I had decided on a quilt about 72" long and around 48"-50" wide. From anyone who has experience with a topquilt, does this sound sufficient?
    Last edited by NWAlabamaHiker; 03-08-2015 at 17:42.
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  2. #22
    Senior Member NWAlabamaHiker's Avatar
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    Pros/Cons Karo Step Topquilt

    Also a couple other questions that someone might be able to answer.
    1. Velcro or drawstring or sewn footbox? Pros/Cons
    2. Full taper or half taper? Pros/Cons
    Thanks!
    Last edited by NWAlabamaHiker; 03-08-2015 at 18:13.
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  3. #23
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    all depends on how you make your foot box. If you are going to have a drawstring you probably want to make it 78" long. Sewn box, you should be OK with 72.

  4. #24
    Senior Member NWAlabamaHiker's Avatar
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    I was hoping to not have to order 2 extra yards of fabric (which I would have to do if I make it over somewhere around 72"), but I do think I'd rather have drawstring footbox. I know most of the time if you order a length of fabric 2 yards long - you'll probably end up with more than 72" in length, but I doubt I'd get enough extra to go 78"?
    What do you think?
    Two heads are good, three are great, but all heads at hammockforums is the best case scenario!

  5. #25
    Senior Member NWAlabamaHiker's Avatar
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    Pros/Cons Karo Step Topquilt


    This is the tentative plans I've got mocked up at this point. I think I'm not going to use any differential except maybe around the baffles nearest the sides? Haven't've even decided on that for sure, but that's what I'm thinking.
    Two heads are good, three are great, but all heads at hammockforums is the best case scenario!

  6. #26
    psyculman's Avatar
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    NWAH's plan looks real good! But, that is a lot of baffles. Just alternating about 4 rows x 7 rows worked for me.

    I use karo for all my quilts, over and under. 3" to 5" loft. I have never had any problems. The karo strips are made of just plan rip-stop, (3" to 5" wide) or the same fabric the outer layer of the quilt is made of, which works great, using 'bug netting' of a similar flimsy thin material makes it nearly impossible to sew!

    With a felt tip pen, mark out the location of the karo strips on one of the differential cut pieces, spread out the piece flat, and spread out the bigger cover piece on top of it, and transfer the marks onto the other piece with a felt tip pen. One of the pieces is cut about 6 inches bigger than the other, and is that much larger on all 4 sides, hanging over, but centered one on one. Even though one of the pieces is bigger, due to the differential size, the location for each karo strip still lines up exactly, layer to layer, with the other, and will allow for plenty of loft. Sew the karo strips onto ONE of the layers first. THEN start at the left side, and sew each karo strip onto the OTHER layer, on the marks corresponding to each, one at a time. Sew up three sides, fill with down, and sew up the remaining open end. I use a very loose wide stitch pattern to close up, because sometimes I want to add more down after trying it out for a while, and the stitches are easy to take out to open it up.

    I did make a couple of quilts which only had the karo strips going in one direction, not alternating perpendicular one to lthe other, but I do not recommend that, because of the ultra light fabric, the down will really move around because the fabric is so slippery. Incidentally, even using water proof fabric, they loft just the same as 'breathable' materials.

    I made a big card board pattern with the outer and inner layers and the location for the karo baffles marked out on it. And because the fabric is so thin, the location for each baffle can be clearly seen through the fabric to mark it's location on each layer. But, I have made four quilts, so it was worth the time.
    Will post a picture tonight, of the pattern, it is at work.
    Last edited by psyculman; 03-09-2015 at 05:25.
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  7. #27
    Senior Member NWAlabamaHiker's Avatar
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    Thanks for your reply. I'd like to see your pattern.
    Yeah I started thinking after I got the plan laid out, that I probably had too many baffles. Probably going to reduce these some!
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  8. #28
    Senior Member MAD777's Avatar
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    This may help you with a Karo quilt. It is the tutorial I posted of my quilt some time back. There was a good discussion about Karo quilts throughout the thread. Pay special attention to post #20 where I explained the cardboard template.
    https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...-and-wearable)
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  9. #29
    Senior Member NWAlabamaHiker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAD777 View Post
    This may help you with a Karo quilt. It is the tutorial I posted of my quilt some time back. There was a good discussion about Karo quilts throughout the thread. Pay special attention to post #20 where I explained the cardboard template.
    https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...-and-wearable)
    Thanks! I think this will help me out.
    When you talked about the spacing between your baffles, I've got 8" openings on mine. 4" on each box corner. You said you suggested 6"? So do you think my 8" openings will be too big?
    Two heads are good, three are great, but all heads at hammockforums is the best case scenario!

  10. #30
    Senior Member NWAlabamaHiker's Avatar
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    Pros/Cons Karo Step Topquilt

    Quote Originally Posted by psyculman View Post
    With a felt tip pen, mark out the location of the karo strips on one of the differential cut pieces, spread out the piece flat, and spread out the bigger cover piece on top of it, and transfer the marks onto the other piece with a felt tip pen. One of the pieces is cut about 6 inches bigger than the other, and is that much larger on all 4 sides, hanging over, but centered one on one. Even though one of the pieces is bigger, due to the differential size, the location for each karo strip still lines up exactly, layer to layer, with the other, and will allow for plenty of loft. Sew the karo strips onto ONE of the layers first. THEN start at the left side, and sew each karo strip onto the OTHER layer, on the marks corresponding to each, one at a time. Sew up three sides, fill with down, and sew up the remaining open end. I use a very loose wide stitch pattern to close up, because sometimes I want to add more down after trying it out for a while, and the stitches are easy to take out to open it up.
    I am a little confused about this. I thought I needed to make the space between my baffles wider on the larger piece of fabric? This would allow more lofting on the outside area even if the quilt was pulled down tight? If you line up your baffles exactly on each piece, but still have a larger piece of fabric for the outside shell, wouldn't that just give you more loftability on the outside edges? (Which actually might be what I want anyway!) Just verifying if I understand things correctly or not. Thanks
    Two heads are good, three are great, but all heads at hammockforums is the best case scenario!

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