How to finish baffle?

[hfmac]

I'm not clear on how to finish a baffle box in a down quilt. After you have sewn the baffles to both the top and bottom pieces of the quilt and then proceed to close up the side seam along the length the quilt, are you supposed to sew through the baffle netting ends (so that they are enclosed in the side seam) or not? The instructions I've seen aren't clear to me as I don't really see any mention of seam allowance at the ends of the netting.

[Dutch]

I'm not clear on how to finish a baffle box in a down quilt. After you have sewn the baffles to both the top and bottom pieces of the quilt and then proceed to close up the side seam along the length the quilt, are you supposed to sew through the baffle netting ends (so that they are enclosed in the side seam) or not? The instructions I've seen aren't clear to me as I don't really see any mention of seam allowance at the ends of the netting.

The way I do it is for a 48" wide quilt I make the netting 50" and the shell 54". Then netting is 1" in the seam on both ends do no down can get to the next baffle. I do try to fold it in half so it lays nice, but it really isn't that important.

[Take-a-knee]

The way I do it is for a 48" wide quilt I make the netting 50" and the shell 54". Then netting is 1" in the seam on both ends do no down can get to the next baffle. I do try to fold it in half so it lays nice, but it really isn't that important.

What is the extra three inches on each side for, that seems a generous seam allowance. Not doubting you, I just need to know since I plan to make a quilt for my daughter (JRB doesn't make exactly what I want).

[Dutch]

Yeah it is 3" seam allowence. I have 1" channels that run the perimeter of the quilt. That way I can either put a draw cord on the ends or a channel for shock cord ala yeti suspension style. It is alo nice to have some room for error. I always have trouble witht the top and bottome lining up perfectly. If everything does line up nice and even I will make the channel a little narrower and the quilt a little wider/longer.

[Take-a-knee]

Yeah it is 3" seam allowence. I have 1" channels that run the perimeter of the quilt. That way I can either put a draw cord on the ends or a channel for shock cord ala yeti suspension style. It is alo nice to have some room for error. I always have trouble witht the top and bottome lining up perfectly. If everything does line up nice and even I will make the channel a little narrower and the quilt a little wider/longer.

Thanks, that makes sense now. I'm guessing that you'd need differential baffles though to use a Yeti style suspension?

[Dutch]

Honestly I haven't gotten the yeti suspension to work for me as well as i would like. The quilt keeps going to one side of me. However I do think differential baffles are a must for yeti suspension. Honestly if you are going to use it as an under quilt at all, I suggest differential baffles. It's just a little harder b/c you need to put little pleats in each baffel. Well worth the work and gets you the most out of your down.

[KerMegan]

However I do think differential baffles are a must for yeti suspension. Honestly if you are going to use it as an under quilt at all, I suggest differential baffles. It's just a little harder b/c you need to put little pleats in each baffel. Well worth the work and gets you the most out of your down.

I am hopeing there is a tutorial on this procedure somewhere? please?
KM

[Take-a-knee]

Honestly I haven't gotten the yeti suspension to work for me as well as i would like. The quilt keeps going to one side of me. However I do think differential baffles are a must for yeti suspension. Honestly if you are going to use it as an under quilt at all, I suggest differential baffles. It's just a little harder b/c you need to put little pleats in each baffel. Well worth the work and gets you the most out of your down.

Pleats? I'd have figured on cutting them on a radius. It's a moot point for me since I'll probably only ever make a top quilt 'cause I want a custom size and color (purple) for my daughter.

[Dutch]

I am hopeing there is a tutorial on this procedure somewhere? please?
KM

I don't think there is one, but let me see if I can describe it.

Make outer (bottom shell) bigger then the inner shell (top shell). for every 6 inch baffle on the top I make 7 inches on the bottom. so it should look like ths when sewn together.
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery...&cutoffdate=-1

This shows it in grossgrain.

http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery...1_original.jpg
(don't be confuse that the baffle is made out of material and not bugnetting. It was something I was trying to do)
When it comes time to sew them shut you have to do something with the extra material on the top. So pin down all the bottom baffles to the bottom where the bugnetting is sewn. once you have all the baffles lined up then you have to make pleats in the center of each baffle to take up the extra material. I use a lot of pins here. I pin at the bugnet before and after where I'm going to sew. And I pin before and after all the pleats. Once it is all pinned I sew at the 3" mark then I sew 1" from the end keeping all the pleats all the way to the end. Then the 1" sewn line become where I fold the material and roll it 2x. I should line up at the 3" sewn line. I iron it and sew the rolled hem to make a channel.

i hope that make sense

[hfmac]

The way I do it is for a 48" wide quilt I make the netting 50" and the shell 54". Then netting is 1" in the seam on both ends do no down can get to the next baffle. I do try to fold it in half so it lays nice, but it really isn't that important.

Ok, thanks. Because the baffle and side seam go in different directions (vertical and horizontal) I thought it might be all twisted up if sewn together and not lie properly. But then if they're not sewn together there would be a gap and possible down shifting.