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Hey guys, I have a big guy bridge hammock ---with the fronky style bug net Bill sells. Has anyone ever done a mod to their bug net? (zipper on the end, so you can stow it when not in use etc) Love the hammock, the bug net is great, but it would be nice to be able to put it away some times, and deploy it when needed! Thanks for the help! STEVE
https://zipperstop.com/product/ykk-5...ackwhite-only/
48" separating zipper fits pretty well- it's about 44" from the bottom to the shock corded opening.
I've looked into this a little, but at the end of the day I only was asked by about three people for this feature, and never got any further than a prototype.
Longer term- if it had gained more traction I would have bulk ordered some of those zippers and made more.
Basically you just add the one separating zipper to one side and then you can open it and slide the whole net aside as you describe.
You do have to untie (or cut) the shock cord on that side and then add a cordlock or stopper to the zipper side.
While seam ripping bug nets is annoying, these are sorta set up for this already with the way I build them.
If you are comfortable with it- I'd bite the bullet and seam rip. The two panels are already roll hemmed separately, then sewn together. So if you rip them you can just sew the rolled hem to each side of the zipper. Little pain with the ripper would save time on the back end basically. But there is probably enough slop that if you mangled it or had to... you could just slice off the net below the cord lock channel and sew the net to the zipper. It would be a hair messier but fully functional.
That said; if you're using a carabiner on each end it's relatively easy to just reach in and unclip the whole bridge from the suspension, tuck the end out of the net, and reclip the biner. That detaches one side (even with the spreaders on) and lets you fold it back if you're using the chair trick.
Though I know if it's windy, your tarp is in the way, etc it can get annoying solo if you have a longish tree strap running from the tree as it can be easy to drop one or the other in the process depending on how you do it. I have to admit- since I usually pre-set the net on almost every bridge and designed the darn thing... maybe I'm blind to the issue.
Also for me personally- it's net or no net season- so it's not something I'd really mess with in the field to much. I figured everyone else more or less feels the same since I've only had three folks ask me about it (all in the deep south). Maybe it's a regional issue? Course I could see areas with more elevation (ridge to swampy lowland) creating a need during a trip to ditch the net.
What I am thinking of more is offering a version of the net with a rainbow or slash door (nike logo) on one panel with a solid piece of nylon on the bottom. This would create a fully enclosed net with a door entry, but not add the cost/hassle/weight of a fully integrated model. This was requested by a future customer from Florida as well as a few folks since. Overall I think that design has more real-world traction than a zipper on one side. But they would perform different functions.
Anyway- happy to hear your thoughts Steve and others. I'm always blunt with how I design and never mind blunt commentary in return.
The blunt answer at this point- my $50 bottom entry net is affordable after the whollop of my bridge prices, sees few serious complaints in the field, and doesn't cost me more than a handful of sales per year. So mainly it's been an 'if it ain't broke' thing.
While others talk about 'pitching your bridge on the ground' with an integrated net- I'd rather pitch my net on the ground and keep my $300 bridge in my pack.
As I've told a few folks- when I originally got into bridges I wanted to add a hammock to my ground system, not the other way around. I was doing many trips at the time that required a pad... If you got a pad, top quilt, and tarp- you got a minimal ground system. If you add a bridge and a net tent- you got a pretty sweet and versatile combo. Point being- that's the way the net is setup so that it fits that system.
The reason I like the sealed bottom panel with side door idea is that it makes a nice piece on the ground too so those customers who appreciate that system can still keep the idea rolling. I like actual multi-function gear and having built similar net bivy tents for FKT stuff this would offer a piece that would be trekking pole pitch compatible. All that said- it wouldn't solve your issue Steve.
SO... Long story longer... Any planned innovation on the net was likely going towards the fully closed with side door idea.
Ultimately I still don't like the integrated net idea on my bridges. Besides the complications of the recessed bar and adjustable ends... there are weight, cost, and quilt fitting issues that arise.
A sealed net with door wouldn't cause those issues and still remain reasonably priced and relatively light.
Thanks for the input Bill! (always great advice) I will let you know what i come up with---Its really good as is, I was just trying to tweak it a bit !
I made a bugnet for my Grizz bridge that works well and does not need to be zipped to the hammock.
It works.
Shug
https://youtu.be/pt8hhXZBEyg
Did Grizz never get you a recessed bar bridge? Somin real Ariel like?Quote:
Originally Posted by Shug
That them there is one of his end bar designs. That's a nice way to do the net on those.
I think Grizz built a better end bar than durn near everyone else- but none of them are close to as nice as the recessed bar versions.
Understood- much of my comments are for everyone who comes by. That and I can rarely seem to type without typing too much.Quote:
Originally Posted by stevebo
Adding that zipper to the end is relatively easy overall and will do what you want it to- but if you get stuck let me know.
I have a question about the sealed bottom panel idea because I think it is a great idea. Would the floor be made out of a waterproof floor so that you can lay it directly on the ground or would you use a breathable fabric and a groundsheet?
Emailed you on this too- but for the group-Quote:
Originally Posted by m00ch
This idea failed the 'thought experiment' phase.
Primary use- sealed bug net for hammock.
Secondary use- bug net for ground use.
While the WP floor would be nice for ground use- in the air the possibility of the bottom of the net catching some ground splash or wind driven rain is much too high.
Also- I'm thinking that M10 (.67 ounce quilt shell) would be the better option as it is a down rated quilt shell that serves well as windbreak and has the potential to turn the net into a bug net/partial UQP combo in the air.
Also- a common 'go to ground' trick is to carry a Polycro groundsheet (window seal)- https://www.gossamergear.com/product...d-cloths#specs
If you go with a basic Sil-Nylon (1.2 ounce) or 1 ounce Sil-Membrane on the bottom of the net for ground use... you're adding weight for primary use to the package. (and some packsize).
3'x7' ground sheet is roughly 2.5 yards of material. .67 ounce M10 vs 1 ounce Sil Membrane is .33 x 2.5 yards is .825 ounces heavier.
Crazy... no.
But a trimmed down PolyCro sheet is basically 1.25 ounces.
So final thought of the thought experiment:
Since we are building a versatile kit with this:
Bug net with a Wind shell (M-10) bottom will be lighter, pack smaller, and avoid any serious issues with trapping water due to dew/splash/etc.
Clear winner for the primary purpose. As a bonus- since it is roughly the same weight as the bug net- you're not really gaining much weight for the feature exchange.
The Fully WP material doesn't offer any benefits in the air- nor does it really add any extra durability or other advantages for the primary use.
For our secondary purpose:
WP material adds 7/8 of an ounce to gain the benefit of a waterproof floor (assuming it holds up).
A poly cro ground sheet does add 1.25 ounces total (or 5/8 ounce more than WP material)... but it is a standalone add on. Meaning if you go to ground on an abrasive surface like a rock ledge or sandbar and trash the thing... you just replace it for a few bucks instead of a Hundred. On a LD hike you can get a replacement easily at your next town stop, while getting a new net or stopping to dab sil-sealer to any pinholes in your fabric will not be possible.
If you chose to go to ground and it's not buggy enough for you to set up the bug net- you can just toss the polycro sheet on the ground without fiddling with your net.
You can pull the polycro out of your pocket for a quick rain solution or a post rain sit down.
The poly cro sheet is also easier to use if you need a pad protector at a wood shelter- where you may struggle to deploy the net regardless.