Day 1: Saturday
I first visited the NMI 2 years ago with a group and on the boat back I knew that I’d have to return again and hike it solo, on my own terms. Around the end of July, I had the time available and booked my ferry. Note about the ferry: Manitou Transit is running a heavier schedule, so the normal 10 AM boat is only for day visitors and overnight backpackers. Afternoon boat (1:50) is for everyone else whose staying for a couple days. Pros: Don’t have to get up early and have a long drive up. Cons: Boat doesn’t get to the island until 3:00 PM, making for a short day. More about that later.
I had leisurely drive up from Clarkston and took it easy. Rolled into Leland around noon, checked in, parked the car, wandered around town, hung out at the dock and chatted with other backpackers. Ran into another solo traveler and compared notes on the island. I always get a kick about watching how people pack and organize their gear. I can’t believe how much stuff some people hang off their packs, or that they’ll have a fifth of spirits (glass, of course), tucked into the mesh on both sides. As long as they go in the opposite direction of me, I’m happy.
We got out of Leland on schedule and arrived on NMI a little after 3 PM. Weather was perfect, sunny and in the mid 70’s. After getting the boat unloaded, we all headed in to finish our permits and go through the standard talk from the Rangers. I was ready to go when he wrapped up at 4 PM and was on the trail by Cottage Row, heading south to Bourniques for my first night. This is the downfall of the late arrival. You could head west toward Crescent, but it’s a couple hour hike and getting in by 7 would be lucky. By going south, I’d get the chance to visit an area that I didn’t have a chance to see on my first visit. I had a great hike and finished up my first day after 4.87 miles and 1 hour 37 minutes of actual walking. The first site I walked into was opposite the cemetery, but it was already filled, so I went back to the trail and got closer to Bourniques. I found a path down to the lake and followed it along the ridge south until I found a spot with perfect trees and an awesome view.
Views of camp and lake:
By around 6, I got my camp set up, took a swim, filtered water with my new Sawyer squeeze, pulled out the alky stove and cooked up my Coleman cheesy tomato pasta that I got on clearance for $3 at Wallyworld. It was actually pretty good, and tasted great with the Labatts that I had chilled in my water bag. By about 9 I was ready to turn in, so I called it a day, read for a bit, and hunkered down for the night. Lows were projected to be 60’s, so the sleeping was perfect with my KAQ New River and Ozark Trails down bag as a topquilt. End of day 1.
Day 2: Sunday-Bourniques to Crescent City
I had a great sleep and woke up around 5:30 or so and caught the early part of the sunrise, followed by an early morning swim. The water was cold and refreshing, but afterward I ended up back in the hammock to relax and warm up a bit. By around 7 I was up and about and had my usual Starbucks VIA and BP Granola & Bananas, from the hammock, of course. At 8 I was all packed up and ready to hit the trail. I’m a morning person, so it’s tough for me to lounge around too long before I start my day. I worked my way north and did some exploring at Bourniques, Anderson Homestead and the Cemetery. Got back on the main trail and headed west, taking my time and enjoying the woods.
I checked out Fat Annies and by the time I got to Fredrickson’s Place, I took a little break and enjoyed the view from the overlook.
At least on this section of the trail, I’d have some nice views of the lake. Went north past Johnsons and ran into the first people I’d seen since Saturday at the junction of the Centerline Trail. The bugs hadn’t been too bad yet, so I had been deet free so far. I took a side trail past the big field and checked out Swensons Barn. Glad I did, because it was pretty cool, with all the old equipment etc. Couldn’t figure out who or why anyone would pack in an old tv set though. Through the back of the barn there is a trail that I followed a bit, but then decided to go out to the main trail and head into Crescent the regular way. Later I met a group that took that same trail out to the lake and they said it was rough. By around 11 I got into Crescent and started looking for a site. Since it was early, no one was there yet. At first I went north along the beach and didn’t find any options, so I went south past the old dock ruins. I ran into a couple on the beach who were camped (illegally) in the dunes. They must have missed that part of the Ranger talk about the 300 foot rule. , I even asked them if they’d seen the Ranger yet and implied that he was out checking the night before, but they never caught on to what I was implying. Later on that day, a group of Boy Scouts set up for the night nearby them. They must have missed that part of the talk too.
South of the old dock, I went back into the treeline searching for a spot. The first couple ones had the “no camping” post from overuse, but I finally found an established spot that was perfect and had great beach access. It even had the remains of an old junk pile, so there were lots of artifacts to look at. By around noon I was where I wanted to be and ended up doing 8.8 miles in about 2 ½ hours of walking. The sun was out and it was in the mid 70’s, but shaded and cool in my site. I got my camp set up and pretty much spent the day lounging around, reading, swimming, and taking a couple long walks on the beach.
The only people around were the couple in the dunes and the Boy Scouts camped near them. I did meet a group from Indiana and one of them was writing an article about NMI. It was late afternoon when I ran into them and they were laying out their plans about going north to the potholes or to the overlook on the trail from Stormer camp for the night. Glad it wasn’t me facing that many more trail miles so late in the day. I’m one who likes to get in early, get organized and have a leisurely day of it. Being solo lets me hike & camp the way I like. Evening dinner was Colemans BBQ Rice Teriyaki (bland) and an apple pie, washed down with Propel. Bugs mostly stayed away that evening, so I hung at the beach and watched the sunset, before slipping back into my hammock for the night. It must have it the low 50’s because it was kind of chilly, but I slept pretty good. Sunday night’s sunset was truly amazing!
Day 3: Crescent to Village to Bourniques (again)
Woke up early as usual, took my morning swim, crawled back in my hammock and relaxed until 7 or so for breakfast in the hammock (same as yesterday). Got my gear organized and started hiking at 8:15. My original plan was to go south to the Centerline trail, then work my way north through town and end up near Majeskis for my last night. I had been thinking about that great site near the Cemetery that I’d like to stay at, plus I really liked the south end, so I changed my plans and started off on my day. Heading north on the old grade I found the side trail (marked with cairns and arrows) to the pot holes. That trail was rough going at times, with lots of blowdowns and it almost disappearing and reappearing. I worked my way to the high point where I could see the lake and it looked like the only way to get there was to go down. I went about 30 feet downhill and decided that I really didn’t want to have to climb out again on a pretty sketchy trail, so I turned back and went back out to the main trail. This section was uneventful, with stops at Davenport Camp and Stormer Camp. Before I got to the wetland area west of the pole bridge, something caught my eye on the trail ahead. It was a beautiful doe and it started walking toward me as I stood still. I watched it for about 10 minutes as it got closer, then at about 10 feet away it looked up, stepped off the trail and kept eating as it worked it’s was around me. This was one of the high points of this trip! After that, I headed south toward Bennons, then checked out Fiskes and Lake Manitou. A short break later I was at the Apple Orchard, Frank Farm, then into the Village. I quickly watered up while I saw the next load of visitors unloading, then headed south past Cottage Row and the all to familiar “Entering Wilderness” sign. I was now back on the same trail I started out on 3 days ago. It was probably 1 PM or so and it looked like the weather was turning. I had already done about 11 miles and was starting to run out of steam. My only thought was getting to that great site I had seen 2 days ago. Made it to the general area around 2:15, but found the site occupied. Plan B-go a little further south to where I stayed the first night. Just then the rain starts and 5 minutes later I look toward the lake and see a rock cairn just off the trail in the grass. No trail but I bushwack toward the lake and walk into a perfect site. Nice and open on one side, good cover on the other, great trees and a perfect view. My 11 foot tarp just barely fit between the trees, but I got my hammock up and my gear stowed right when the rain really started coming down.
I was grateful that I was all set, because unloading from the boat and starting a hike in the rain is no fun. Been there, done that and don’t want to repeat it again. Monday was a long day and I ended up doing 14 ½ miles in about 5 ½ hours of actual walking. The rain eventually stopped, but it was still cloudy and cool. Later on in the evening it did warm up and most of the mosquitos stayed away. There was no one to the north of me, but once again, someone who didn’t pay attention to the Ranger, camped in the dunes about a ¼ mile south of me. I spent the rest of the afternoon and evening hanging out, swimming, and reading more of David Miller’s “AWOL on the Appalachian Trail”. This was my last night on Manitou and my trip was coming to an end.
Day 4: Bourniques to the Village
Up early again and started with the obligatory swim in Lake Michigan. Starbucks Via and granola & bananas from the hammock. Lounged around camp and finally packed up and hit the trail around 9:30. Within 10 minutes I ran into the other solo backpacker I met earlier and we had an good conversation on our way back to the village. I was a slow walk, because it took almost 2 hours to cover the 3 miles back to the Village. Arrived in plenty of time to meet the 12:15 “show up time” for the 1 PM Ferry. Had a calm boatride back, followed by the 4 hour drive home to Clarkston. I did make a quick stop at the Culver’s in Traverse City for an obscene double cheeseburger with everything and onion rings. I think I gained back all the weight I may have lost on the trip with this one, but it was well worth it.
Total mileage for the trip, according to my Garmin, was 31.9, and it took 11.5 hours of total walking time. All in all, I really enjoyed my 4 day solo trip to North Manitou Island. I did have cell coverage on the south and east sides of the island, so at least I could check in with family. No coverage on the west side of the island, but that just may be an ATT&T issue. I had the standard park issue map, but on this trip I used the North Manitou Guide from Jim Dufresne, who wrote “Backpacking in Michigan”. For $5, it was well worth it, because it gave alot more trail & elevation info. NMI is pretty heavily used (depending on the season) so if you need help, the chances of running into someone are pretty great. Cost for the trip was $35 for the ferry, $33 for camping fee, permit and parking, plus my gas and food. Grand total was around $125, which is a pretty good deal for a getaway to an island in Lake Michigan. Special thanks to HF member Wolverine, who gave me some trip advice and led me in the right direction for some great hang spots.
I know this was a long post, but glad you stayed with it. If you’re planning a trip to North Manitou, these links may be of help:
http://www.nps.gov/slbe/planyourvisi...itouisland.htm
http://manitoutransit.com/
http://www.michigantrailmaps.com/
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