Was there a little over a year and a half ago. My son and I both hung our hammocks, although when we went it not very busy (after Thanksgiving) and we had the pick of the sites. It will just depend on whats available,you may need to get creative.The reservation had no issues and we even talked to some of the rangers as the came through our campsite. Flying bugs were not an issues, dust and leaver were. We had tarps and only used them 1 night when a bit of rain came through. I think we did 40 or 30 degree underquilts, but our high never hit 60 once in the canyon.
We left the trailhead just before daybreak to beat the mid-day sun.Took about 4 hours for us to get down to the sites (11:30 am when we stopped) this included stopping to register, and taking lots of pictures on the way etc. The hike in is relatively easy. As far as the monsoons they can be intense and just tend to pop up. However they are not usually all day rains (at least from my experience). I think they had a flood last July due to this.
I would not rely on their store or restaurant for food. It's over a mile from the sites, all uphill. Again we were in 'off season', but when we visited on our way out, they were low stock and the cafe had several items on the menu no longer available. Everything comes in via horse or helicopter. We grabbed a soda and that was it. Interestingly on the way out we passed the mail 'train' USPS horse caravan with all kind's of Amazon boxes strapped to them. There is also a frybread hut in the camp but it was only open 1 day when we were there. We were disappointed because what we did get was good, and every time we walked by it was never opened again.
Bring extra empty water containers the only source of water in camp is a small spring (no filter needed) it can be a walk, and this way you can fill up for a day.
For the hike out I would also leave early, it gets hotter as you get out and the last 2 miles are hard.
Have fun!
The pictures from our trip
http://jalbum.net/en/browse/user/album/1912607
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