Cost to go UL

[rweb82]

Got it. That's the bad thing about down...it's really radiates that heat. Well, a good thing usually.

Regarding the whole UL thing, I don't get deep into numbers, dollar-per-ounce, etc. That's ridiculous. Just buy what you want, but make sure it's light/lightest possible item if you can afford it. A good example is paying more for a UL down jacket vs. cheaper vest. If they both weight the same (my cheap vest is actually heavier), the jacket is a winner. So when I'm in doubt, I take the jacket and never worry about getting cold.

I'm with ya. I don't dive too deep in the numbers either. I just go as light as I can within my budget, and utilize holidays, birthdays, etc... to get the more expensive gear I want. Taking that approach, I've gotten my base weight down to under 14lbs without actually spending a ton of my own money.

[Just Bill]

The good news in recent years- is that the ultralight bar has moved quite a bit.

To reach the screaming edge of XUL or SUL (extreme UL or Super UL) then the dollars add up fast enough.
But UL (around a 15lb baseweight) is actually pretty affordable overall.

That Paladin tarp Cmoulder mentioned... $180 for 8.5 ounces is about half of the standard $400 DCF tarp for example that might get you closer to 5.5/6 ounces.
There are dozens of examples like that where if you're chasing the bleeding edge... you'll pay for it. But for half the cost you could only find yourself paying a few ounce penalty.

The other cost effective strategy represented in UL backpacking is that you simply buy less stuff.
So the best way to budget may simply be to trim things off your list to buy.
Going stoveless isn't super popular for all... but it not only sweeps out that whole list of items from your spreadsheet... it also wipes out a few hundred bucks of TI pots, pans, stoves, utensils etc to build that cook kit.

Have less stuff- you don't need a robust pack to carry it... which cuts down the cost of the pack itself since it doesn't need any difficult to build frames or reinforcing to haul your load.

Everything is expensive when you are starting from scratch... but realistically going ultralight is often more economical so long as you aren't chasing the extremes.
You want a five pound baseload that will cost you... but even a 10lb baseload isn't that hard to build at a reasonable price.

[DrBrown54]

I didn't get into the rest of my gear because it's pretty much all as light as I can go for a thru hike without being complete hiker trash lol. My previous tent was barely over 2 lbs so swapping that for the hammock was like adding a boulder, and it takes up twice as much space in the pack. I can't really drop weight with my other gear at this point, it's the new sleep system (ENO) that weighs a metric ton. I'm going to evaluate the ideas given, there's a lot of great ones. Appreciate all the help peeps!

[ChrisJHC]

A few other comments:

The spreadsheet is good for a couple of reasons.
Firstly, to do the $/g calculation to see what to target first.
Secondly to be able to plug in sale prices quickly to see whether they really are a bargain.
Thirdly, to “accidentally” leave around when it’s coming up to your birthday/Christmas/Sales time.

Next, forget ounces and measure everything in grams. Why not join the rest of the world? Plus the reductions you will achieve are bigger.

Finally, don’t forget to cut your toothbrush handle in half!

[MikekiM]

+1 for both the spread sheet and the Half Wit (or HUG)

Using the spread sheet both pre and post hike helps dial in the gear you're using. You do the same by making three piles when you unload post hike.. Used it, Used it once. Didn't use it. The last pile doesn't come next time. That's the easiest way to get lighter. Then look at the Used it once pile.. is there some other item that can be double-duty'd to provide the same function? Or, maybe you can exchange two items for one that does what both the others do. The Used It pile is where you focus for the ultra-light options first... replace your heavy hammock, or streamline your tarp, choose a lighter or more appropriate sized pack. Helps you figure out which items you need to focus on...Tons of ways to lighten the load before taking a dive into the big bucks items.

Last year I DIY'd a Half Wit clone in 1.2 Robic and 0.5 noseeum. Fitted out it's 9.7oz. In really hot weather I'll use just a silk TQ.. enough to give me the feel of something over me and be a topsides barrier against bugs. Just started another Half Wit clone in 1.0 Monolite.. hoping to break 9oz. A hammock is a great first DIY project.. it's all straight lines and you really can't screw it up.

[cmoulder]

I didn't get into the rest of my gear because it's pretty much all as light as I can go for a thru hike without being complete hiker trash lol. My previous tent was barely over 2 lbs so swapping that for the hammock was like adding a boulder, and it takes up twice as much space in the pack. I can't really drop weight with my other gear at this point, it's the new sleep system (ENO) that weighs a metric ton. I'm going to evaluate the ideas given, there's a lot of great ones. Appreciate all the help peeps!

With that ENO combo you're looking at a very bulky and heavy system at 4.8 lbs.

With the stuff that I linked in my earlier post you would reduce weight by almost 3 pounds at an additional cost of about $100. You'd be hard pressed to find a bigger bang for the buck than that when cutting weight.

Also, comparing tent and hammock systems is very subjective and usually ends up being apples to oranges. However, when you compare bleeding edge UL setups of both systems, my experience is that hammock systems are generally only a tiny bit heavier and very slightly bulkier. A few years back, a big part of my reluctance to even consider hammocks was the notion that they added substantial weight and pack volume, and this is simply not the case.

[jdeering]

It isn’t more expensive, but hammocks aren’t that UL

Hammock set up:
1. Dutch half zip 11’ single layer with whoopies 21oz
$154

2A. Dutch xenon hex tarp 13oz
$110

Or

2b.dutch Dyneema hex tarp 7oz
$250

Total:
A: $264 (xenon) 34oz
B: $404 (Dyneema) 28oz



Tent:
A: six moon designs, skyscape trekker 28oz
$225

B: zpacks Hexamid 15oz
$550


You can use your current bag/quilt and pad in the hammock. If your pad/bag aren’t UL and you want to upgrade, the cost to upgrade would be the same either in the hammock or on the ground. When you compare handmade American vendors (not Walmart gear) in both tents and hammocks, the prices are comparable.

If you want UL, get a tent. Dollar for dollar, your set up will be lighter with tent. If you want potentially better sleep, get a hammock.




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[cmoulder]

Hammocks "aren't that UL?"

My pack from a recent overnighter.... actual trailhead weight 12.08 lb, base 8.77 lb consumable 3.39 lb:



Complete gear list here, and this is for fairly cool weather... knock off another 1 lb and then 2 lb as the weather warms up.

UL and hammocking are FAR from being mutually exclusive.

[jdeering]

Hammocks "aren't that UL?"

My pack from a recent overnighter.... actual trailhead weight 12.08 lb, base 8.77 lb consumable 3.39 lb:



Complete gear list here, and this is for fairly cool weather... knock off another 1 lb and then 2 lb as the weather warms up.

UL and hammocking are FAR from being mutually exclusive.

Well done, they are NOT mutually exclusive.... you can have a UL setup with a hammock, it’s just lighter on the ground.


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[MikekiM]

Well done, they are NOT mutually exclusive.... you can have a UL setup with a hammock, it’s just lighter on the ground.


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This a rabbit hole if ever there was one..

I have hammocks that range from 9oz (Half Wit Clone in Robic 1.2) to nearly 30oz (DL DH Raven with bug net).

Tarps that are 7oz on the low end and over 20oz on the upper end.

Quilts that range from 12oz to mid 20's.

'It's just lighter on the ground' is like saying red cars are faster.