UCR FAIL

[goobie]

yah, know, I gave you guys the info on how to get it work work flawlessly. How about trying what does work first since I haven't had an issue in all the years I've been using them.

You can lead a horse to water........


I've never had a need for a bury any longer than the standard whoopie bury, just over 8" . From the dead of winter at -20° to spring rains and all weather conditions in between. Milk the bury properly and I have yet to have an amsteel UCR slip.

[Phantom Grappler]

You can lead a horse to water........


I've never had a need for a bury any longer than the standard whoopie bury, just over 8" . From the dead of winter at -20° to spring rains and all weather conditions in between. Milk the bury properly and I have yet to have an amsteel UCR slip.

I defer to your good experience with UCR
I try to help with suggestions
In the field know how tops guessing every time
Anyone who needs help with UCR should follow y'alls lead


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Double]

Weight of the occupant has tons to due with the bury length needed!

I, all 350 lbs of me, need a 12 inch bury which equates to a finished lenght of 10 inches. I use squids method minus i take the tail of the slider and tie the constrictor knot with it. This only works with 7/64 and under line. 1/8 amsteel won't constrict, or lets say I wasn't able to tighten it enough to keep the bury from slipping.

This, plus the use of knots instead of spliced eyes gives me the shortest distance of 12 inches on each side of my 11.5 feet of hammock. So I can hang from trees 13 feet apart. Which is great since my DIY trap has 12 feet of ridgeline. The 9 ft UCR's are used with 4 ft tree hugers and are larks headed to each other and have a grapplers hitch for quick connections. The lenght of my system is due to most state parks in Kansas have trees that are really close together, or 20+ ft apart. So I must be adaptable with my set up.

With Whoopie Slings I was able to us a 8 inch bury with a finished length of 6 inches. For full disclosure I have been experimenting with Dutch's 15 ft 3000 lbs tree straps using the Becket hitch. Which are great, but you can't dial it in as easy as other systems.

[goobie]

So you're saying they based their buries on the size of the boat they were using amsteel on (that's where this stuff came from I believe), not on the diameter of the line itself???

I've put people larger than me in my UCR equipped hammocks, and had them essentially fall into them. All with standard buries. Just trying to figure out why others are having trouble......

[Double]

It is from my personal experience on the lenght of bury needed for UCR's. I tried 8 inch, 10 inch, and 12 inch buries when I made my first set. That's the measurement before splicing. 8 inch bury dropped me fast when half weight was applied. 10 inches was slower and was able to put my full weight in the hammock with it trying to grap every few inches on the way down.12 inches was the magic number for me. Been rock steady for about two years of use. Made another set mid 2017 trying to shorten the bury lenght and had the same results.

[johnspenn]

It is from my personal experience on the lenght of bury needed for UCR's. I tried 8 inch, 10 inch, and 12 inch buries when I made my first set. That's the measurement before splicing. 8 inch bury dropped me fast when half weight was applied. 10 inches was slower and was able to put my full weight in the hammock with it trying to grap every few inches on the way down.12 inches was the magic number for me. Been rock steady for about two years of use. Made another set mid 2017 trying to shorten the bury lenght and had the same results.

Thanks for sharing your experience. Mine had 8" buries (before splicing), I think on my next set I'll try 10" buries. AND a prussik or something similar =)

[HoosierT]

Let me add this. If you choose to use the prussik which works awesome, here's something to help reduce the minimum hand distance. When you go to make the short piece, you will be making an actual dogbone in order to have the prussik holding the constriction. Normally, only one end of the short piece gets a loop and the other just gets backspliced. To add the prussik, per Falkniven's thread, you splice a loop on both ends. Now, here is where I decided to change it up. When you go to make the dogbone, only one end (loop) is supporting weight so that end needs the locked brummel with a proper full bury length. The other end, however, isn't supporting any weight, it's just holding the constriction. So, to reduce the minimum hang distance, I just did a locked brummel with a VERY short bury, like 1/2-1". You could sew over it if you feel inclined but I didn't and mine has done fine. Since the bury for a supporting loop needs to be something like 5" (including taper) this will allow you to reduce the hang distance by ~4" on each end of the hammock. Just some food for thought.

[scrope]

From my experience with UCRs (as well as what I've read), the main issue with UCR fails is when the buries are the correct length but aren't held tight on both ends. If you follow the calculations on the length of bury you should be fine as long as the bury is tight.

It's when the bury becomes slack that it loses its ability to grip and you sink to the ground. I'd be interested in hearing if anybody has prussic's on the ends that are tight enough and the bury tight enough and they still have slippage.

[MikekiM]

I do exactly what sqidmark does...whipping and overhand knots, no prussiks.. I hate prussiks. My primary suspension is an amsteel ucr and it has yet to slip. The whipping knot and sufficient bury are what's critical. My first build had the bury just a tad too short (10.5" bury) and not only did it slip, but the half hitch I threw in as a preventative measure got sucked into the bury as well..
I am under 200lbs. I have full faith in the ucr... so much so that I am rebuilding the same setup in Dynaglide.

[jadekayak]

From my experience with UCRs (as well as what I've read), the main issue with UCR fails is when the buries are the correct length but aren't held tight on both ends. If you follow the calculations on the length of bury you should be fine as long as the bury is tight.

It's when the bury becomes slack that it loses its ability to grip and you sink to the ground. I'd be interested in hearing if anybody has prussic's on the ends that are tight enough and the bury tight enough and they still have slippage.

I think you hit the nail squarely on the head.

The bury length is determined by the rope diameter.
These are calculated by the rope manufacturers for the type of rope being used.

They are also calculated on the basis that there will be loading on both sides of the rope lrrike a whoopie sling.

With a UCR only one side has the load applied so you need to milk the bury manually to engage the bury correctly or have a friction hitch at the non load end to achieve that tension.

I really liked the idea of the UCR-dyneema rope is not cheap in NZ and a whoopie will use almost twice the dollars as a UCR,a major cost when you hav 5 or 6 hammocks

I made my UCR exactly to the specs,including the friction knot,and it still slipped.
50% more bury and still slipping so i left them behind.
The whoopie sling is the most reliable of the constrictor methods as both sides are equally loaded.

I now use a simple with a larks head conection at the tree strap and my honemade stainless friction locjs at the hammock end.

Reduced weight,reduced hang length,and simplicity-all be it at the cost of setup time.

6mins setup instead of 1min.
Only real disadvantage i can see is in a downpour.