GSMNP/ Mt. Sterling loop (Failed Attempt!) February 2016

[binfordw]

My wife and I had planned to do this loop as a 3 day, 2 night hike. With the campsite reservations required and planning involved, we just had to hope for the weather to work out.

The forecast the day of departure was to be lows in the teens in the foothill towns.. From what I gathered thanks to Tallpauls help online, we were looking at 10-14 degrees as a low Friday night, and 0-5 degrees for Saturday when we camped at Mt. Sterling/ camp 38. My wife and our oldest son willingly joined for this hike


We arrived Friday morning at the trailhead about 8:30 in a thick, wet snowfall. The forecast was calling for 1-3 inches this day.








The trail, also a horse trail, was wide and easy going. The elevation gain was well hidden. Was a nice change to be able to hike side by side for once.






Big creek is beautiful. Absolutely loved this section of trail. We made it to mouse creek falls, and took advantage of the low miles left to camp to pull out the stools and have a snack break.

As with the entire creek, the waterfall was sure worth staring at during our snack.




We crossed Big creek via a nice bridge, with more perfect snowy views.




After a few more miles, and some cool Rhododendron tunnels, we found campsite 37 and picked a good spot. It was early, about 2pm, so we had ample time to relax, and get things ready for the night. My wife cooked us lunch (Packit gourmet Ramen rescue for me- Happy with this one for sure), while I set up our gear, and started a fire to dry things out.




Using the massive DIY "tarp for two"! Under this is our 2, 11' night owl hammocks and 25" dutch spreader bars. You get a gap at the top of the doors still, but the coverage is pretty close to what I had planned for.




As evening set in, winds picked up, and started to occasionally howl, or should I say, ROAR,, through the camp. I was a bit unsure about how our night would go with this wind.. We all hoped it would die down later. We built up a nice fire, thanks to the small Wyoming "bow" saw I packed. My wifes new boots were not treating her feet very well, she fought cold feet all evening. Will have to try again on her footwear I guess- I remedied the discomfort with handwarmers for her. Luckily I had packed several to aid in the cold temps.

We ate supper (Texas state fair chili for me!), and stared at the fire while random socks and gloves were dried. I took notice of the low morale.. I started to tell another night- at a higher elevation, and at even colder temps, was just not going to work out this time. The wind we were getting at camp 37 was likely 30-40mph in gusts I had guessed. I recall Tallpauls advice about the winds being a bit more at camp 38- due to higher elevation, and it just sounded like a bad idea to try to continue.

My wife was willing to hold out for the night and make a decision in the morning, even with her frozen feet. I could tell it wasn't going to be fun even if we did continue, so I broke the news that we would just hike out in the morning instead. Morale took a large boost! I used the extra fuel for hot cocoa and tea before bed.

I threw the extra handwarmers in our hammocks and hunkered down for the night. The wind was, high.. We were close to Big creek, which made alot of noise, but every so often, you could hear a roar of wind coming. It took 10-20 seconds atleast to reach us, but shook the tarp, hammocks, trees. This went on all night and often woke me. My wife mentioned later the wind swung her hammock so bad she would grab mine to help slow it, to prevent nausea. I think it must have been the trees swaying.

My sleep started off pretty warm- I even lazily went to bed with cold toes. I found myself getting cold butt/back spots later in the night, that I couldn't seem to adjust out fully. I did find in the morning, one of my prusik's was untied for my UQ suspension, allowing one corner to sag. I assumed this was the cause.

My wife stayed warm in her 0 degree quilts + dutch winter sock. She did say she could feel the wind when the roars hit and shook everything, but she didn't cinch the sock down either so the head end was fairly open still.



Morning came, and it was a chilly one! I guessed it at nearly single digits on my nose-hair thermometer. A fire wasnt worth the effort just to pack up and head out, so my wife made use of her JRB sniveller, look at all that down!




It was about here I realized the trouble of freezing water. I had left a couple water bags full/half full overnight, and they were solid chunks now. I had empty bottles, so I could filter more, but soon found my sawyer filter was also frozen. Even the creek water I grabbed before I realized the filter was useless nearly froze up in a matter of 10-15 mins or so. Luckily I thought to crush it up and dump it out before it froze too much to make the bag useless. We had to pack the other frozen containers, and I stuck the sawyer in a glove with some handwarmers until it thawed enough to use. Mental note, be less stupid about water containers in the winter.


We loaded up and hiked out. Luckily the trail was all downhill, and a fast pace warmed us up rather quickly. Grabbed a few more pics along the way!

My jacket pockets were packed FULL trying to thaw our filter and snacks for later!












The sun started to appear for the first time as we approached the trailhead, and we saw several groups of people on dayhikes. I started to feel a bit bummed about not making it to Mt Sterling, until the parking lot. A older gentleman spoke to use briefly about our overnight. He said they had reported 50-60mph winds at higher elevations last night- and the same was forecasted the next night as well.


I will say, I loved my wearable gear. I had a new pair of winter boots, Baffin Snosports. These did great for me, they are laced with a simple barrel pull, easy slip on/off even with gloves- But sturdy enough hiking wasn't harder. My feet were happily warm- I did get a little cold toes late in the evening after sitting forever, but I didn't even bother changing out of my hiking socks- so likely just my fault. The new Costco Down jacket I bought from a group buy here was great as well around camp.

[Zoomie]

First, thanks for the trip report ! Looks like you both earned the night in the woods.

For what its worth, I don't see this as a failed attempt. You were out in the woods with your wife in harrowing conditions. You learned a tremendous amount about cold weather camping.

But two critical things here that show you to be a very wise man and an even brighter husband. First, you were intelligent enough to realize that you were approaching the limitations of your gear, your knowledge, and most importantly your comfort. Your wife already had issues with her feet. In those conditions, pressing on to higher altitudes with additional exposure could have meant real trouble.

Second, you paid close attention to your wife's comfort level and noted that she was approaching misery. You checked your can-do attitude and ego (we men all have them) and changed your plans. High five for that !

My wife and I were car camping in the high desert in Arizona a number of years back. I had left to fish a bit down in a canyon. When I returned, my wife was sitting outside the tent in 50-60 MPH winds, replete with a full-on haboob, attempting to read a book. I took one look at her, and could tell that she was well past the point of enjoyment. I shut the trip down on the spot, and you'd have thought I bought her something at the jewelry store!

To this day, I honestly believe that the only reason she still loves camping is because she knows that we can change plans at a moments notice the minute the trip changes from challenging to misery. Because of this, she is willing to get out in the woods in both fair and foul weather.

I tip my fleece beanie to you, sir !

[Les Rust]

Glad you all got down here to the Smokies. I remember you were thinking about Snake Den and Maddron Bald--another case of upper elevations. I agree, it was not a failure but a good adjustment to the plan. There are lots of variables in a trip--wind, weather, warmth, equipment, experience--and you have to work with each of them. You got to see some beautiful spots, spend time together, learn some valuable lessons. Most of us who have spent some time in the woods have had to alter course or retreat at one time or another. Getting out and getting home is pretty much a success. Having a good story to tell makes it even better.

[michigandave]

You made the right choice in cutting the trip short. It's not just you out there....its your family. I've bugged out of trips early before and yes, it can be a tough decision, but safety is key and winter conditions can get you into trouble before you know it.

Since your Sawyer froze, I'd recommend tossing it out and replacing it. One frozen, the filter is compromised. $20 is a small price to pay for safe water next time your out. Sure is beautiful down there and thanks for the report.

[sidneyhornblower]

Well written report that we can all learn from, especially your decision to turn back. You turned a potential misery into a challenging adventure and a good memory.

[dkurfiss]

You made a good choice. It means next time your family will still be willing to join you.

I will echo what was said about the Sawyer. If it froze, you will want to replace it. Freezing breaks micro holes in the filter and it can no longer do it's job.

I do a couple of things in the winter. First off I boil water before bed time, put it in a Nagalene bottle, shake hard, let off pressure, seal top, place in zip lock freezer bag, then into a wool sock. This goes into my hammock as a bed warmer. I use this instead of chemical heat packs with the added benefit of water that is not frozen for the morning. Along with the water I also always put my Sawyer filter into the hammock with me usually in the same bag as the water bottle. This keeps it from freezing on me.

[Canoefor2]

Just remember that as time goes on this will always be the trip your son and wife will talk about and laugh. It was not a failure buy a test for the next time.

[Donk_67]

Good report. I'll echo what has already been stated: good call to shorten the trip. And replace the Sawyer.

A trip isn't worth talking about if there isn't an element of adversity involved.

[Tintype]

Thanks for sharing your experience. I love winter camping but my wife knows better than to come with me! I agree those hand warmers are literally a life saver sometimes, they are a lightweight addition to your pack and really help out in a pinch.

[binfordw]

Thanks for the tips on the Sawyer guys, I hadn't thought about that really. I was borderline replacing it anyway, it seemed slow to me- even after flushing with the cleaning plunger.

I had decided on the chemical warmers instead of boiling water, just to cut down on fuel needed, hassle and time. If it was just myself things would be different, but dealing with 3 peoples gear and setups adds a good bit of work. I really had completely overlooked the freezing issue, as dumb as it sounds. I knew the bags I left out would freeze, but it didn't register that I would have no way of emptying them. I attempted to blow out the sawyer after use to drain, but I don't think this even works. I'll be sleeping with it in a baggy next time its below freezing.